2016 Summer

2016 Summer

FORT MONROE | RV REVIEW: WINNEBAGO ITASCA SUNSTAR LX 27N | GOING GREEN

TO

CoastResorts.com

SUMMER 2016

Oregon Trail A modern-day trek

A Lazy River St. Louis to Hannibal

SUMMER DESTINATIONS Lakewood Village Resort Wapakoneta, Ohio Ocean Breeze Resort Ocean City, Washington Retrailia-Pleasant Creek Ranch Mt. Pleasant, Utah

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Rates quoted are per person, land only, based on double occupancy unless otherwise stated. Rates valid for departure 11/02/16. Rates for other travel dates may vary. Rates, terms, conditions and itinerary are subject to availability. Certain restrictions apply. Rates shown include government-imposed fees and taxes. Rates are current as of 4/21/16; at the time you purchase your package, rates may be higher. For current prices, please ask our personal vacation planners. Advertised rates do not include any applicable daily resort or facility fees payable directly to the hotel operator at check-out; such fee amounts will be advised at the time of booking. Not responsible for errors or omissions. [Pleasant Holidays acts only as an agent for the various travel providers shown above.] CST# 1007939-10. UBI# 601 915 263. TAR# 5308. Copyright © 2016 Pleasant Holidays, LLC. All Rights Reserved. CST#1018299-10

Cruise from prices are in U.S. dollars, per person (cruise only), based on double occupancy in an inside cabin category. Government taxes and fees up to $225 are additional. All prices and dates are subject to availability. All Onboard Credit (OBC) amounts are for selected dates, sailings, cabin categories subject to availability, and are capacity controlled. All prices and dates may not be available at time of booking. Princess reserves the right to impose a fuel supplement of up to $9 per person per day on all passengers if the NYMEX oil price exceeds $70 per barrel, even if the fare has already been paid in full. Additional restrictions may apply. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda.

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CONTENTS

TRAVEL 8  Oregon's Quiet Side Relive early American history set among unique geological features. STORY AND PHOTOS BY EMILY AND MARK FAGAN 14  The Great River Road

GOOD SAM AND CAMPING WORLD CHAIRMAN AND CEO Marcus Lemonis [email protected] COAST TO COAST PRESIDENT Bruce Hoster [email protected]

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MEMBER SERVICES 64 Inverness Drive E. Englewood, Colorado 80112 800-368-5721 [email protected] COAST TO COAST WEBSITE CoastResorts.com COAST TO COAST FACEBOOK Facebook.com/CoastResorts EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Dee Whited ART DIRECTOR Nicole Wilson

 A glimpse of Mark Twain’s life on the Mississippi. STORY AND PHOTOS BY DAVE G. HOUSER 19  Historic Treasure, Natural Gem

 RV Friendly Fort Monroe, Virginia STORY AND PHOTOS BY PAULA LOEHR

DEPARTMENTS 4 From the President 5 Member Matters 5 Resort Updates 21 RV Review

RESORTS 6  Lakewood Village Resort Wapakoneta, Ohio 7  Ocean Breeze RV Resort Ocean City, Washington 23  Retrailia-Pleasant Creek Ranch Mt. Pleasant, Utah

Volume 35, Number 3. Coast to Coast (ISSN 1093-3581) is published quarterly for $14 per year as part of annual membership fees, by Coast to Coast Resorts, 64 Inverness Drive E., Englewood, Colorado 80112. Periodical postage paid at Englewood, Colorado, and additional mailing offices. Registration Number 558028. Publications Mail Agreement Number 40012332. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 875, Station A, Windsor, Ontario N92 6P2. U.S. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Coast to Coast Resorts, P.O. Box 7028, Englewood, CO 80155-7028. Coast to Coast Resorts assumes no responsibil- ity for unsolicited manuscripts or artwork. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced by any method without prior written consent of the publisher. ©2016 Camp Coast to Coast, LLC. Coast wing logo is a registered trademark of Camp Coast to Coast, LLC. The GOOD SAM ICON, and Dream. Plan. Go. are registered trademarks of Good Sam Enterprises, LLC and used with permission. Unauthorized use of Coast’s or Good Sam’s trade- marks is expressly prohibited. All rights reserved. PRINTED IN THE USA. COVER PHOTO BY Emily and Mark Fagan CTC50580 - 0516

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FROM THE PRESIDENT PUTTING MEMBERS FIRST

While we will convert our spring, summer, and fall magazines to electronic issues, this will not impact our Coast to Coast Annual Resort Directory. We will continue to print and mail our Coast Annual Resort Directory to you each January. If you have any feedback or suggestions on our “ Go Green” initiative to convert our spring, summer, and fall magazines to digital issues, please email me at [email protected]. Exciting Resort News I have some exciting resort news to share with you this issue. Travel Resorts of America is pleased to announce they have acquired North Shore Landing in Greensboro, Georgia, and have made the resort the newest affiliate of Coast to Coast. The resort is located on picturesque Lake Oconee about an hour east of Atlanta just off I-20. Lake Oconee boasts 374 miles of shoreline, a plethora of watersport activities, a rich Native American history, many historic buildings, museums, six championship golf courses, dining, shopping, and more. To learn more about the recreational options at Lake Oconee, see VisitLakeOconee.com. To learn more about North Shore Landing, visit travelresorts.comand click on “Our Resorts.” Further on the subject of resort news, Outdoor Adventures has announced that they have purchased Spring Lake Resort in Kalamazoo, Michigan. The resort has been renamed Kalamazoo Resort – Outdoor Adventures. In addition to the name change, Outdoor Adventures plans many exciting upgrades at this resort. This is the eighth resort under the Outdoor Adventures banner in Michigan, adding to the two new resorts they opened in the past year: Grand Haven Resort near the eastern shore of Lake Michigan in Grand Haven, and Mt. Pleasant Resort near the Soaring Eagle Casino and Entertainment Complex in Mt. Pleasant. To learn more about Kalamazoo Resort, visit outdooradventuresinc.com and click on “Resorts.” I hope your summer travels are in full swing. Let us know how Coast to Coast can help plan your next RV adventure or travel getaway. And please remember to sign up for the new digital edition of Coast Magazine.

Coast Magazine to “GO GREEN”

As a company with deep roots in outdoor recreation, we have decided to join the "Go Green" movement by converting our quarterly Coast Magazine into an electronic publication. Our magazine will still be published in the same 24-page format; however, it will be available online rather than printed and mailed to members. To be sure

you receive each issue in your inbox, please be sure to sign up on our member website, CoastResorts.com . Simply go to our home page, look for the box titled “Get Our Free Enewsletter,” and click “Sign Up.” You will be required to sign in with your member number and password to sign up for the electronic editions. Or you can call Coast Member Services at 800-368-5721 and ask one of our agents to sign you up. This will also ensure that you receive our bi- monthly enewsletter, “Coast to Coast Insider,” which is the fastest way to learn about new resorts, new member benefits, and other breaking news.

MARCUS LEMONIS Chairman and CEO

BRUCE HOSTER President Coast to Coast Resorts [email protected]

Camping World & Good Sam [email protected]

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MEMBER matters MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR COAST TO COAST MEMBERSHIP Always Remember to Check Out Before Leaving Coast members staying at a resort or Good Neighbor Park (GNP) must always check out with the resort or GNP before leaving at the conclusion of their stay. The same policy applies when members leave earlier than their scheduled check-out date. The reason is that not checking out, or leaving early without notifying the resort or GNP, can cost a member extra Trip Points. Coast pays resorts for member stays based upon the check-in and check-out dates for each member stay. If a member fails to check out, the resort may be unsure of the date that the member actually left the resort. If a member leaves early without checking out, the member can be liable for Trip Points equal to the full reservation. We know that plans change and emergencies can happen. When they do, just be sure to take a minute to notify your host resort or GNP and confirm your check-out plans. RESORT UPDATES ADDITIONS AND CHANGES TO THE 2016 DIRECTORY The 2016 Coast to Coast Resort Directory is packed with everything you need to navigate the network of Coast to Coast Resorts and Coast Good Neighbor Parks. To keep members up-to-date, each issue of Coast magazine includes any updates that have occurred since the last issue. COAST TO COAST RESORTS COAST PREMIER UPDATES SOUTH DAKOTA Rushmore Shadows Resort - Midwest Outdoor Resorts, Rapid City (page 157) Phone: 605-399-7899, Email: [email protected], URL: midwestoutdoorresorts.com UTAH Retrailia RV Resorts - Lakeside Park (Annex) formerly Camperworld - Lakeside Park (Annex), Duchesne (page 166) Email: [email protected], URL: retrailia.com Retrailia RV Resorts - Pleasant Creek formerly Camperworld - Pleasant Creek, Mt. Pleasant (page 167) Email: [email protected], URL: retrailia.com COAST DELUXE NEW Wilderness/Presidential Resorts , Spotsylvania (page 171) COAST DELUXE UPDATES MINNESOTA

Hidden Bluffs Resort - Midwest Outdoor Resorts, Spring Grove, (page 133) Email: [email protected], URL: midwestoutdoorresorts.com WISCONSIN Harbour Village Resort, Sturgeon Bay (page 184) Email: [email protected] COAST DELUXE TERMINATIONS IDAHO Lewis - Clark Resort, Kamiah (page 118) NEW YORK Schroon River Adirondack Adventure - AM Campgrounds, Diamond Point (page 141) TEXAS Holiday Villages of Livingston - Texas Resort Company, Point Blank (page 162) COAST CLASSIC UPDATES MISSOURI Branson Ridge – OCP formerly Compton Ridge Campground and Lodge – OCP, Branson (page 134) Email: [email protected] TENNESSEE Breckenridge Lake Resort, Crossville (page 157) URL: brlrvcamping.com TEXAS Lake Pointe Resort, Canyon Lake (page 160) Email: [email protected] COAST CLASSIC TERMINATIONS GEORGIA Walkabout Camp and RV Park, Woodbine (page 117) WISCONSIN Yogi Bear Jellystone Park-Fort Atkinson, Fort Atkinson (page 183) GOOD NEIGHBOR PARKS GOOD NEIGHBOR NEW GEORGIA Walkabout Camp and RV Park, Woodbine GOOD NEIGHBOR UPDATES SOUTH DAKOTA Three Flags RV Park, Black Hawk Phone: 605-787-7898 GOOD NEIGHBOR PARK TERMINATIONS ARIZONA Whispering Palms RV Park, Tucson FLORIDA Seminole Campground, North Fort Myers Zephyr Palms RV Park, Zephyrhills NEW JERSEY Lake Laurie RV Resort and Campground - Sun RV Resorts, Cape May TEXAS

Mission Gardens Resort & RV Park, Mission The Fountain at Peñitas RV Park, Peñitas

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MEMBER matters

Lakewood Village Resort An ideal combination of modern-day amenities and rustic camping

RESORT TYPE Coast Deluxe LOCATION Wapakoneta, Ohio SEASON Year-Round WEBSITE Lakewoodvillageresort.com

Pronouncing Wapakoneta is the only difficult thing you’ll encounter when pulling your RV into Lakewood Village Resort. Once through the gates relax amid nature, lakes, and pristine settings. Choose from shaded RV lots with 30/50 amp electric, water hookup and sewer services, or check into one of the lake-view log cabins. Nestled between Indian Lake and Grand Lake St. Marys, Lakewood Village is considered one of the finest Ohio resorts. According to owner Mark Wilson, members have a lot to say about the resort. “What they comment on most is our overall facilities,” he said, “which include an indoor pool, the cleanliness of the resort, activities that we have on a consistent basis, and our latest purchase of water sports equipment used in our lakes.” Or don’t relax—jump right into one or more of the many planned activities and enjoy the amenities that make this resort so memorable. Don’t forget your fishing gear to catch the big one from the 9 acres of fishing lakes and ponds. The

lakes and ponds can also be accessed using paddle boats and row boats. Have fun in the indoor swimming pool and spa. Top that off with a trip to the sauna.

Meet your friends at the clubhouse that has cable TV and Internet access or challenge them on the putt-putt golf course, horseshoes, shuffleboard, basketball, or volleyball. If you brought your children or grandchildren, the children’s play area is a must visit. Offsite, you’re a short drive to the Neil Armstrong Air & Space Museum and Ohio Caverns. The resort is 50 miles north of Dayton, 90 miles south of Toledo, and 87 miles northwest of Columbus right off I-75, if you’re in the mood for city life.

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Ocean Breeze RV Resort Acres of forest just minutes from the beach

RESORT TYPE Coast Classic LOCATION Ocean City, Washington SEASON May 1 to December 31 WEBSITE Kmresorts.com

At Ocean Breeze RV Resort in Ocean City, Washington, you can have it all: sun, sand, ocean, and hundreds of campsites surrounded by 170 acres of shady forest. But there’s more. In addition to tree-lined acres and spacious RV sites, pack your swim suit to take advantage of water sports—both in the onsite swimming pool and nearby ocean. Melt your cares away in the sauna, meet new and old friends in the adult lounge, and play games in the clubhouse. Try your hand at miniature golf and basketball. Get some exercise on the walking and biking trails and watch your kids enjoy the playgrounds and kids’ game room. If you choose to enjoy this property without an RV, reserve one of the three rental cabins. In addition to how secluded the resort is and the shady trees, Vice President Kevin McLeod says one of the draws is Connor Creek. “There’s some secluded sites that back up to Connor Creek,” he says. “We’ve built decks that look out over the creek where members can watch the otters at play. It’s very peaceful.”

Nearby Ocean City State Park features ocean beach, dunes, and dense thickets of shore pine. Migratory birds are a popular attraction. Within a short drive, try

your luck at Quinault Beach Resort Casino, a Vegas-style casino with more than 700 slot machines, a poker room, and 12 table games. In the area, there are more than 50 miles of pristine beaches. Drive a little further and enjoy all that Grays Harbor has to offer. Inland, experience the Quinault Rain Forest, one of only two temperate rain forests in the Northern Hemisphere. Grays Harbor is home to seven bodies of water: harbors, lakes, streams, channels, canals, rivers, and of course, the Pacific Ocean. If water isn’t what you want to experience, then hike into the nearby forest to witness wildlife in their natural habitat.

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Relive early American history set among unique geological features EXPLORING OREGON'S Quiet Side

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Story by EMILY FAGAN Photos by EMILY AND MARK FAGAN

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An RV road trip from central Oregon to the northeastern corner of the state is a journey through unique geological formations and early American history that delivers you into the Wallowa Mountains, one of the most breathtaking mountain ranges in the American West. I recently made this jaunt with my husband, Mark, in our 36-foot fifth- wheel trailer, and we were utterly smitten by the beauty and tranquility of this quieter side of Oregon. Pointing our rig northeast from Bend, Oregon, we arrived in Prineville and followed a wonderful, winding road through craggy lava beds along the Lower Crooked River (Route 27). This is a favorite area for anglers, and we watched them standing by the water's edge, their RVs parked just steps away in the campsites that line riverbanks overlooking the river. Continuing northeast from Prineville, we arrived at the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. This is a huge National Monument that is so large that it’s split into three

Compared to traveling in our comfy fifth-wheel, the early pioneers didn’t have it so easy.

The Painted Hills Unit in John Day Fossil Beds National Monument.

separate units, each showcasing a different aspect of the unique geological features in this area. Two units are easy to reach from the road that was taking us from west to east, Route 26, and we stopped to marvel at the vivid red and pink sandstone mounds in the Painted Hills Unit. Further on, we hiked into a glorious blue-green rock canyon in the Sheep Rock Unit. The delicate rock formations here bear a striking resemblance to beach sand drip castles that kids make, but their size is such that we were sure they’d been made by the gods. Nearby, the Cant Family Ranch offers a fascinating glimpse into ranch life a century ago. James Cant and his wife Elizabethwere early 20th-century Scottish immigrants who raised sheep on 6,000 acres in this very remote land. While we had to make do without Internet access for miles, the Cants eeked out a life for themselves and the ranch hands they housed with nothing but bare land and their own labor. While James kept the ranch hands busy shearing

No matter where you travel in Eastern Oregon, trails take you through beautiful vistas.

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sheep, Elizabeth fed them and other visiting travelers at her farmhouse dinner table, often hosting multiple meals in shifts all day long. A quote from this feisty, hard-working—and exasperated— woman adorns one wall: "When I meet St. Peter at the pearly gates, I will be holding my dish towel!" Traveling along the highway to the town of Sumpter in our big, powerful diesel truck towing our comfy fifth- wheel trailer that boasts all the modern amenities, it’s hard to imagine the rugged life of our forebears in this harsh land not so long ago. As we passed the ghost town of Whitney, a few crumbling buildings were faint reminders of a once bustling railroad town that was built to ship out an immense stand of yellow pine. Neither the trees nor the inhabitants nor most of the houses that once stood here remain. A little further east in Sumpter, however, the old railroad line has been rejuvenated, and a group of dedicated

Take the train between Sumpter and McEwen to travel into another era.

volunteers keeps the trains running, to the delight of tourists of all ages. The train travels a short distance between Sumpter and nearby McEwen, but the train ride is a trip into another era. From the shrill whistle to the rhythmic turning of the wheels to the apprenticeship program that the volunteers undergo to rise through the ranks from conductor to brakeman to engineer, the Sumpter Valley Railway excursion is a fun way to experience a taste of America's railroad past. From the Sumpter Railroad, it’s a short distance to the wonderful Victorian town of Baker City. Still housing the same 10,000-person population that it had in 1940, this jewel of a small town is filled with charming architecture and a friendly spirit. The beautiful Geiser Grand Hotel dominates the downtown historic district, and the 1929 Art Deco-styled Baker City Tower is still the tallest building in Oregon east of the Cascade Mountain Range.

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Built during the gold rush of the mid-1800s, and expanded during a second wave of gold fever from 1890 to 1910, Baker City has been called the Queen of the Mines because of the rich gold mining that took place in the area. For those who want a glimpse of a real, fist-sized gold nugget, there is a fabulous one on display under glass in the US Bank branch across from the Geiser Grand Hotel. This nugget weighs more than five pounds—80.4 ounces to be exact—and it was found by George Armstrong and Dick Stewart in June 1913. It has been on display at the bank (under various bank ownerships) since before the Great Depression. It is one of the few very large gold nuggets in existence today and is probably worth more than its weight in gold as a collector's item. Riches came to Baker City citizens from other industries too. Leo Adler was an enterprising 9 year old who walked the neighborhoods delivering the Saturday Evening Post and Ladies Home Journal. Unlike most paperboys, however, he built his little business into a major magazine

The remains of several homesteads can be explored in the ghost town of Whitney.

Center. This huge museum, set high on a hill overlooking vast open land, tells the story of the mass migration of pioneers on the Oregon Trail between the 1840s and 1880s. This was a nearly 2,200-mile trek from Missouri to Oregon. From a few to as many as 120 covered wagons traveled together, as each settler sought new futures and free farmland out West. Perhaps the most poignant aspect of this museum is the individual tales and quotes from diaries displayed on the walls. What a shock it was to learn that, at times, travelers could see a line of covered wagons from their own to the horizon both ahead and behind them. I had no idea the trail was that packed. And how surprising to discover that groups were generally led by someone who had done it before, and that they often stopped along the way for a rest day so the women could clean the family's clothes and the men could hunt for dinner. What a scene that must have been, both at the campfires and in the hunting groups. Outside the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center, we found actual ruts in the dirt that are remnants of the Oregon Trail. We felt shivers as we stood in the middle of the trail and imagined what it must have felt like to be in this part of Oregon with the earliest American settlers. The area is vast and open now, but looking toward the horizon, we knew there were towns and cities and Walmarts and civilization just out of view. Not so in those early days, when the

The town of Baker City offers paved biking and walking paths and features the annual City Cycling Classic.

distribution empire that made him an extremely wealthy man. His home is open for tours, but equally special is the paved biking and walking path through the backside of town that was created from funds he left to his beloved community. A leisurely bike ride on the few miles of this bike path is a great way to see Baker City from a local's perspective. But for those who love cycling at a faster clip, the Baker City Cycling Classic is a Tour de France-style four-day- long bicycle stage race that takes place at the end of June. We were thrilled to join the locals at the outdoor eateries and bars in historic downtown Baker City and watch the exciting final stage of the bike race as it circled around us on the downtown streets one afternoon. From little kids to grannies, everyone got into the spirit as the 150 bikes flew by us in tight packs at more than 30 mph. Leaving Baker City behind, we continued northeast, making a stop at the impressive Oregon Trail Interpretive

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road, is Wallowa Lake State Park, a wonderful RV camping destination on the shores of Wallowa Lake. In addition to lakefront campsites at the state park, several private RV parks are tucked into this nook in the mountains. For hikers, there are hikes all through the Wallowa Mountains and Eagle Cap Wilderness, and one of our favorites was Hurricane Creek. This hike took us through meadows that were bursting with wildflowers and led us to the edge of a beautiful waterfall. After the hike, we stopped for a microbrew beer at a picnic table under towering shade trees at Terminal Gravity Brewing in Enterprise, a local favorite. Eastern Oregon had given us many unusual delights already, but there was one more highlight ahead of us— Hells Canyon. This portion of the famous Snake River is America's deepest gorge, and it separates the states of Oregon and Idaho. There are some overlooks that peer toward the canyon from great heights on the Oregon side of

horizon sometimes revealed a band of Native Americans that wasn't keen on sharing their homeland with European interlopers. One Native American who worked tirelessly to make peace with the settlers and find a way for his people and the newcomers to coexist was Chief Joseph, an eloquent and wise leader whose well-reasoned requests and impassioned pleas to the U.S. government were ultimately met with deaf and traitorous ears. The sweet little village of Joseph is named for this remarkable leader. Sitting in a valley on the edge of the spectacular Wallowa Mountains, the town of just 1,000 people is adorned with beautiful bronze statues cast by the local foundry, Valley Bronze. Chief Joseph, Sacajawea, and other Native Americans and cowboys are immortalized in bronze on street corners around town— bigger than life size—with the snow-capped mountain peaks of the Wallowas as a natural backdrop. Joseph lies at the end of a dead end road, making it a seldom visited destination. However, there’s lots to do. Take a ride on the unique tandem bicycle railcars that ride on the narrow gauge railroad tracks between Joseph and Enterprise with Joseph Branch Railriders, or take a ride in a gondola up to the top of Mt. Howard for lunch on a deck at the Summit Restaurant overlooking the stunning 9,000-foot peaks in the Wallowa mountain range. Just a few miles south of Joseph, at the very end of a dead end

Streams run cool and blue in the Eagle Cap Wilderness of the Wallowa Mountains.

the river, and these can be reached by a winding road from Joseph. However, to get into the gorge and see it up close from water level, we needed to loop around from Joseph back through Baker City to the tiny hamlet of Halfway, and then cross the border into Idaho at the river community of Copperfield, Idaho. Following the road that crawls along the edge of the Snake River in Hells Canyon, we craned our necks as we looked up at the rocky peaks high above us. The water is a rich aquamarine and there wasn't a soul on the road with us. We spotted deer drinking down at the river's edge while we enjoyed a picnic lunch on the tailgate of our truck. Our brief tour through Eastern Oregon was an inviting sampler of all there is to see and do on the quiet side of this beautiful state. Without a doubt, we’ll be back for more!

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THE GREAT RIVER ROAD:

St. Louis to Hannibal, Missouri

STORY & PHOTOS BY DAVE G. HOUSER

Map by William Tipton

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A series of Greek Revival columns and pilasters climb upward between four ornamental balconies under the circular iron dome of the Old Courthouse representing classical orders of Greek and Roman architecture.

A GLIMPSE OF MARK TWAIN’S LIFE ON THE MISSISSIPPI The Great River Road: some call it the best drive in America as it follows the course of the Mississippi River for 3,000 miles from northern Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico. Named a National Scenic Byway for its natural, cultural, historical, and scenic qualities, it runs along both sides of the river, passing through 10 states and hundreds of river towns. A journey long on my bucket list, I finally had an opportunity last October to sample a segment of the byway from St. Louis to Hannibal, Missouri, traveling in the company of my lady friend Melinda. It was only a 150- mile fragment of the Great River Road—but arguably a prime chunk of the route—brimming with history crucial to settlement of the nation, resplendent with scenery, and providing a glimpse of life on the Mississippi as celebrated in the writings of Mark Twain. Our trip commenced with a couple of days spent exploring St. Louis, famous for its soaringGatewayArch, symbol of the city’s historic role as “Gateway to the West.” It’s the world’s tallest arch, the nation’s largest manmade monument, and by far and away the city’s leading attraction. The arch was not exactly visitor-friendly during our stay, however. The 90-acre site upon which it sits (a national park unit designated the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial) was undergoing a massive landscaping renovation along with work at the visitor center aimed at retrofitting the Museum of Westward Expansion with new interactive displays. Work won’t be completed until early 2017, but the arch remains open to visitors—so we hopped in line to join a “Journey to the Top,” a popular tour that shuttles guests in elevator cars to an observatory atop the 630-foot-high arch. Narrow slit-like windows afford awe- inspiring views over St. Louis and the Mississippi River. Next, we made our way through the work-zone to the Old

While visiting downtown St. Charles, you might encounter a Daniel Boone impersonator. Boone made his home there.

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Courthouse to look at Museum of Westward Expansion exhibits, moved from the arch for temporary display there during the renovations. Our visit was enhanced by the performance of a string ensemble from the St. Louis Symphony. It was a lovely and varied production, featuring some toe-tapping fiddle music, a few Scott Joplin favorites, and a couple of classical movements. Some parts of the Old Courthouse date to 1821 but the impressive Italian Renaissance dome was installed in 1862. The four-story domed rotunda with its ornamental balconies and elegant Greek Revival columns and pilasters represents the very best of 19th-century public architecture in America. During the afternoon, we strolled around Laclede’s Landing, a popular—and historic—riverfront dining and entertainment district named after one of the French fur traders who founded St. Louis in 1764. A late lunch at Hannegan’s Pub found us making a big mess out of a large and delectable rack of St. Louis-style barbecued ribs. Later, we were swept up in game-time excitement as thousands of local Cardinal fans converged on Busch Stadium for a playoff game with the Chicago Cubs. It was fun watching folks casting off their cares and woes—and turning out with real energy and enthusiasm in support of the home team. The following day found us exploring Missouri Botanical Garden. Established in 1859, it’s one of the oldest botanical institutions in the country—and a National Historic Landmark. It’s quite an oasis, with 79 acres of horticultural displays, an enchanting Japanese strolling garden (largest in America), and a gleaming geodesic dome conservatory. We also visited the St. Louis Zoo, which was a big surprise on several counts, including its free admission policy—and its stellar reputation in the zoological world. Since its inception in 1910, the zoo has been renowned for its naturalistic exhibits and its diverse collection of more than 560 species of animals, many of them rare and endangered, from around the world. It is widely recognized for its innovative approaches to animal management and wildlife conservation. We saw beasties of all sizes and descriptions—from anteaters to black rhinos—and particularly enjoyed the Penguin Cove exhibit, the first walk-through sub-Antarctic penguin exhibit in North America. This is a truly incredible exhibit, with realistic sea cliffs providing nesting grounds for four species of penguins (Humboldts, gentoos, rockhoppers, and kings), plus colorful puffins and other seabirds. Our journey along the Great River Road to Hannibal got underway the next morning with a quick half-hour drive north from St. Louis on MO Route 367 to Alton, Illinois— not far from the confluence of America’s two largest and longest rivers, the Missouri and Mississippi—where we paid a visit to the National Great Rivers Museum in East Alton. Located adjacent to the Melvin Price Locks and

Crowds gather at Ballpark Village adjacent Busch Stadium for pre- game festivities during the 2015 National League baseball playoffs between St. Louis Cardinals and Chicago Cubs in St. Louis.

Penguin Cove is one of the most entertaining exhibits at the St. Louis Zoo. Photo by Gil Courson, St. Louis Zoo.

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Dam, the museum is a collaborative effort between the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and the Meeting of the Great Rivers Foundation, devoting 12,000 square feet to interactive displays and exhibits designed to tell the story of the Mississippi River. One of the more interesting exhibits chronicles the different types of vessels used on the river through time, including canoes, keelboats, steamboats, and modern-day barges. A pilot house simulator allowed us to see what it’s like to guide a 1,000-foot-long tow of barges under a bridge or through a lock. We didn’t know this, but locks (26 of them) are needed on the upper section of the river between St. Louis and St. Paul, Minnesota, to accommodate a 236- foot drop in river elevation between the two cities. We got a good look at how these locks operate on a tour of the nearby Melvin Price Locks. Free tours of the locks are conducted three times daily, at 10 a.m., 1 p.m., and 3 p.m. Founded in 1818, Alton has a rich history as a busy river town—and it played an important role in the Underground Railroad, sheltering escaped slaves fleeing across the river from Missouri. In 1858, Abraham Lincoln and Stephen Douglas debated slavery and states’ rights on the town square. Alton is notable, too, as home to the world’s tallest man, Robert Wadlow, who measured a towering 8 feet 11.5 inches tall. Returning to Missouri, we followed US Hwy 67S to I-270W, bound now for the historic Missouri River town of St. Charles. Historic is an understatement in reference to St. Charles. Founded as a fur trading post in 1769 and named Les Petit Cotes (Little Hills) at the time, St. Charles was the home of famous frontiersman Daniel Boone and served as home base and starting point for the Louis and Clark Expedition of 1804-1806. It also served as Missouri’s first state capitol from 1821-1826. The town’s brick-paved Main Street is a National Historic District with several dozen restored 19th-century buildings now housing shops, restaurants, and galleries. We had a good time here. The local folks are all extra friendly, including a costumed stand-in for Daniel Boone we met up with at the Daniel Boone Home & Heritage Center. This is a complex of about a dozen buildings, including a general store, grist mill, and a school—all offering a glimpse into life on the Missouri frontier. The town’s newest attraction, the Foundry Art Centre, features four galleries totaling more than 5,000 square feet, and the studios of 21 selected artists. We chatted with several artists and watched a potter and a goldsmith plying their skills. Moving north on the Great River Road (Missouri Highway 79) we paused in the tiny town of Clarksville to drive up to Lookout Point (a.k.a. Pinnacle Peak) where a 900-foot- high overlook provides a panorama of the river below. We also stopped for a close-up view of a barge moving through Lock & Dam 24. The Victorian-style downtown here has adapted nicely to the tourist trade, filled with artists,

Art galleries and craft shops line Main Street in Clarksville. Photo by Carl Wycoff, Missouri Tourism.

American Cruise Lines' Queen of the Mississippi riverboat calls at Hannibal, Missouri during its upper Mississippi cruises between St. Louis and Saint Paul, Minnesota.

The Old Courthouse with the Gateway Arch in the background.

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antique dealers, and various specialty craftsmen. Bald eagles like the place, too, migrating by the hundreds each winter to fish and nest at Lock and Dam 24. Highway 79 is the setting for another kind of migration each November when painters, sculptors, photographers, and crafters assemble for “Fifty Miles of Art”—an art festival of sorts that unfolds along the corridor between Hannibal and Clarksville. We learned of the event during our next stop in the town of Louisiana—another Victorian charmer—and home to some of Missouri’s best-known artists. There’s a mural movement underway here. Local artists have painted 24 large murals on the sides of buildings around the town, and there’s a sculpture park as well, featuring works by internationally acclaimed sculptors. Arriving in Hannibal, we quickly realized it doesn’t take a professor of literature to figure out who the town’s most famous resident was. His name prefaces half the signs here—and the names of his characters serve as prologue for the other half. Crossing the Mark Twain Memorial Bridge entering Hannibal, visitors are greeted by the Huck Finn Shopping Center, the Tom N’ Huck Motel, and the Mark Twain Dinette. While there’s not much subtlety surrounding the great author’s achievements, and his boyhood connection to the town, we, like most visitors, loved Hannibal in spite of all the Twainery. It was Twain’s childhood experiences here—as a young rascal then known as Samuel Clemens—that sparked his huge imagination, leading to some of the world’s most widely read novels.We toured all the “must sees,” including the Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum (a National Historic Landmark), the Becky Thatcher House, and the Huckleberry Finn House. The museum and neighboring complex of restored houses offer a comprehensive interpretation of Clemens’ life. Interactive exhibits, aimed at involving youngsters but suitable for kids of all ages, engage visitors in some of Twain’s favorite novels—riding a raft with Huck and Jim, exploring a cave with Tom and Becky, or taking a turn at whitewashing that famous picket fence (still standing adjacent the boyhood home). As dusk approached, we hiked to the top of a limestone bluff above the town to have a look at Rockcliffe, a turn- of-the-century Gilded Age mansion with a million-dollar view of Hannibal and the river below. Sitting on the lawn out front of the big house, we marveled over all that we’d seen in little more than 150 miles on the Great River Road. Good reason, we surmised, to return one day to travel the rest of it.

Visitors view a relief sculpture honoring the builders of the Gateway Arch, located in the National Park Service visitor center beneath the Arch, St. Louis.

A reminder of the Gilded Age, the grand 30-room Rockcliff Mansion was built by lumber baron John J. Cruikshank in 1900. Rich in architectural detail and decorated in Victorian and Art Nouveau styles, the mansion is open for guided tours in Hannibal.

FOR MORE INFORMATION greatriverroad.com & roadtripusa.com/the-great-river-road

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HISTORIC TREASURE, NATURAL GEM RV Friendly Fort Monroe, Virginia

Story & Photos by Paula Loehr

Here’s a shout out to RVers who like to pursue a variety of special interests in one location. If there’s a Mid-Atlantic road trip on your travel wish list, there’s no need to choose between a fascination with American military history and your affinity for Mother Nature. In the vicinity of Hampton Roads, Virginia, on the western shore of the Chesapeake Bay, Fort Monroe is a historic treasure and a natural gem—all contained in one relatively quiet, RV-friendly destination. Named for America’s largest-ever stone fortress, Fort Monroe has attracted military veterans and civilians interested in armed services history since the early 1900s. For centuries beforehand, the fort site has commanded the attention of many distinguished residents and visitors. Archaeological evidence indicates that Paleo-Indian hunters first inhabited the area’s spruce and fir woodlands at least 12,000 years ago, with the formation of a “big bay” occurring 2,000 years after their arrival. As fish and shellfish populations rose several thousands of years later, the Algonquian people named the sparkling bay “Chesapeake,” which translates to “Great Shellfish Bay” in their language. In 1607, the area was explored by Capt. Christopher Newport and named Point Comfort by Capt. John Smith. By 1609, Smith had established Fort Algernon at Old Point Comfort— the current site of Fort Monroe. A fire destroyed the first fort, and its masonry replacement—Fort George—was built on the same site in 1727, then flattened by a fierce hurricane in 1749. The Union Army commenced construction of Fort Monroe—

Fort Monroe Museum features realistic battle scenes.

named to honor fifth U.S. President James Monroe—in 1819. In an offensive reaction to local British aggression during the War of 1812, the stone-studded fortress was designed to secure Hampton Roads Harbor, thus providing an impermeable coastal defense of the Chesapeake Bay. Since its earliest days, the moat-protected stone walls of Fort Monroe sheltered an eclectic parade of legendary characters. During 1828-29, famed horror writer Edgar Allen Poe was stationed at Fort Monroe as an enlisted Regimental Sergeant Major. Following a brief checkered record of army service (including alleged appearances on the drill field wearing nothing except his hat), Poe’s family employed a substitute soldier to conclude his tour of duty. Poe returned to Fort Monroe in 1849 (just before his death) to recite “The Raven” and “Annabel Lee” at the Hygeia Hotel, where he reportedly courted a cluster of female admirers on the veranda. From 1831 through 1834 (the year of the fort’s completion), a youthful Lieutenant Robert E. Lee was engineering supervisor at the Fort Monroe construction project. Robert’s wife, Mary Custis Lee, moved to Fort Monroe in 1831 and the Lees’ first son was born onsite in 1832.

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As time passed, iconic Fort Monroe served as backdrop for critical Civil War scenarios. The infamous 1862 skirmish between ironclad warships the USS Monitor and CSS Virginia was fought within view of Fort Monroe. Between 1861 and 1865 while most of Virginia became part of the Confederate States of America, the stone fort remained under Union Army control. When commanding Union Gen. Benjamin Butler sheltered three escaped men formerly enslaved by Confederates, he was credited with paving the way for President Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation. From that point forward, Fort Monroe was nicknamed “Freedom’s Fortress.” In 1861, the Union Army invited freedom activist Harriet Tubman to become the singular African American civilian volunteer with the Massachusetts troop commanded by Gen. Butler. While Tubman lived at Fort Monroe, she provided essential nursing care, prepared meals, and laundered clothes for fugitive families (called “contrabands”) who sought safety and eventual independence.

Edgar Allen Poe, once stationed at Fort Monroe, was a famous resident.

Fort Monroe’s U.S. Army base was officially closed in 2011, and the site was named a National Monument in addition to its prior designations as a National Historic Landmark and National Register of Historic Places site. Today’s FortMonroe Authority oversees a publically accessible 565-acre peninsula that contains the moat-encircled fort with museum plus a historic residential village. Look for the bright white Old Point Comfort Lighthouse (circa 1803), which reaches 54 feet into the sky and encircles a spiral staircase carved from hand-cut stone. Beyond its engaging history and architecture, Fort Monroe boasts an appealing outdoorsy element. You can explore eight miles of Chesapeake Bay frontage with three miles of unspoiled beaches. The waterfront boardwalk is perfect for strolling and there’s a pleasant assortment of trails for jogging and cycling. Engineer’s Fishing Pier is adjacent to Continental Park on Fenwick Road. The vintage 1818 Corps of Engineers project is a promising spot for hooking rock fish or striped bass. A Virginia saltwater fishing license is required. Watch for a bald eagle soaring or brown pelicans swooping. Listen for the persistent quacks of an American black duck calling her ducklings. The park, Outlook Beach, and fishing pier are open (without entry fees) from sunrise to sunset. Summer is the best time to experience the complementary wonders of history and nature at Fort Monroe, Virginia.

A charming cottage stands at the Fort Monroe Casement Museum.

The list of U.S. presidents who visited Fort Monroe is quite impressive. Andrew Jackson stayed frequently between 1829 and 1834. In a surprising twist on couples’ resorts, President John Tyler and his bride honeymooned at Fort Monroe in 1844. Abraham Lincoln spent four nights in Quarters 1 during his term of office. In the aftermath of the Civil War, Confederate President Jefferson Davis was held prisoner in Casemate 22. Later on, the likes of Rutherford B. Hayes, James Garfield, Theodore Roosevelt, and William Howard Taft dropped in. Even Woodrow Wilson, Herbert Hoover, and Franklin D. Roosevelt made presidential appearances at Fort Monroe. The big stone fort’s military history is interpretedwith splashes of color and creativity at the Casemate Museum (20 Bernard Road). A casemate is actually a chamber located within the walls of a fort, and the Casemate Museum occupies many such rooms connected by stone archways, each representing an authentic scene from the fortification’s rich history. Every casemate is reconstructed accurately with attention to detail.

FOR MORE INFORMATION fmauthority.com/visit

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RV REVIEW

By Howard J. Elmer

Winnebago Itasca Sunstar LX 27N It’s like driving your big screen TV down the road

Bigger is not always better; well at least in the case of the Itasca Sunstar. This Class A motorhome is just 28 feet 3 inches long—which is similar to many Class C’s and even in the range of some B-Plus units. Why does this matter? Because with this compact Class A chassis you still get all the height and basement storage that these motorhomes typically offer, yet the Sunstar drives so much smaller than it looks. Still if you shell out big cash for a Class A you don’t want to be cramped—so the Sunstar, while not long, is wide with three slideouts and a queen-sized dropdown bed over the cockpit that serves as a full second bedroomwithout eating up more space when not in use. Built on the Ford F53 Chassis, the Itasca Sunstar’s tighter wheelbase offers a firm, responsive ride. The shorter length means less tail-swing in turns which also translates to less centrifugal force pushing the coach in directions other than the one you want it to go. These are just two attributes that

make for a comfortable, relaxed ride. And I love that huge windshield and tall seating position that you can only get in a Class A. It’s like driving your big screen TV down the road! Better in fact, because this view isn’t flat. The vista stretches out in a 180-degree panorama through the curved glass, and the seat’s height means you look right over traffic—which brings the distant horizon into sharper focus. With a decent, controlled ride the driver (and co- pilot) can relax and enjoy the scenery sliding by. The cockpit also lends itself to comfort. The Sunstar features multi-function high-backed ultraleather seats with adjustable armrests and fixed lumbar supports. That huge windshield is also tinted and has large sun visors—on either side are fans for clearing the glass or just offering a pleasant breeze. The steering wheel tilts, each power mirror has its own defrost, and, of course, it has cruise control. The rear-view camera uses a six-inch color monitor in the center dash—also home to AM/FM radio and USB plug-

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The kitchen slide out does a neat trick; it pushes out to reveal a fixed counter that contains the sinks—when extended the kitchen is now L-shaped and with the sinks in the L offers a large amount of counter space next to the three-burner stove. This stove comes with an oven, and a range hood above it is also part of the built-in microwave. The hardwood cabinetry throughout the coach is carried right through the kitchenwith a wood-panelled refrigerator and large double-door pantry. Flooring throughout the unit is hard-wearing vinyl that has the look of marble tiles—even in the bedroom. Frankly, for cleaning purposes, this is ideal. The only carpet is found on the engine doghouse and under the dinette table. HVAC in the Sunstar is managed with a 14,000 Btu AC unit and a 30,000 Btu low-profile basement furnace with in-floor duct distribution. To provide AC power when you are boon docking, Itasca includes a 4,000-watt Cummins Onan MicroQuiet gas generator. Shore power, or the generator, also feeds the twin deep-cycle batteries. These have an auto-charge control; while the dashboard has a chassis battery switch (separate from the house batteries) that won’t let you drain the engine’s starting power. Outside you havemultiple basement storage compartments, with lighting and rubber-sealed slam-shut doors. The entrance step is powered and automatic. Above it is a powered patio awning and a porch light with interior switch that welcomes you home. So while I liked the compact driveability of the 27N, the Sunstar line actually features seven floorplans built on similar chassis that range in length from 26 to 37 feet. Each has slides with the larger units sporting several. Interiors can be customized by swapping out dinettes for couches or other available variations. But, for me, it’s the drive that matters in this window on the world.

ins for direct phone device connections. On the co-pilot’s side is an in-dash workstation with its own USB and 12V powerpoint. The countryside around London, Ontario, is flat farmland so I didn’t get a chance to feel the Sunstar’s hill-climbing ability—but then the Triton V10 is a long-serving motorhome engine with a decent reputation. On the flats it was more than adequate—whether on the country side lanes or merging on to the highway. What I noted during the drive (again thanks to the shorter chassis) was an almost complete absence of hobby horsing going over bridges, railway crossings, and on washboard roads. There is some side-to-side sway, as you’d expect from a coach this tall, but nothing to cause discomfort— even in brisk turns. The Triton engine makes 362 hp and with a GVWR of 18,000 pounds is a good match for this unit. Getting that power to ground is a TorqShift 5-speed automatic transmission that also features tow/haul mode. The Sunstar includes a 5,000-pound hitch and 7-pin electrical connection as standard equipment. So while the drive is great—when you do finally get to your destination the little Sunstar opens up like a circus tent. The large passenger-side slide holds the whole kitchen and a chest of drawers in the master bedroom. A smaller opposite slide in the master pushes out a built-in wardrobe. Now there is a full walk-around for the 60x80-inch queen bed with nightstands and shirt closets above on each side. A hard, sliding door ensures privacy. The bathroom is large with a corner sink across from a huge semi-circular shower (with skylight). It is also located mid-ship. This location offers equal access to the master bedroom occupants and the guests that will utilize the powered drop-down queen- bed up front. That third slide out houses the built-in dinette. Its position opens up the kitchen floor space, and with the driver and passenger seats swiveled around, also creates the living room area. That makes the dinette the center of the action—with the TV on the wall behind it. Still it serves a second purpose by folding down into overnight accommodation—so in a pinch you can sleep six; though I see this as a unit for two.

LENGTH: 28’ 3” WIDTH: 8’ 5.5” HEIGHT: 12’ 2” INTERIOR HEIGHT: 6’ 8” EXTERIOR STORAGE: 123 cu.ft. GVWR: 18,000 pounds TOW RATING: 5,000 pounds ITASCA SUNSTAR LX 27N

FRESH WATER: 64 gallons GREY WATER: 53 gallons BLACK WATER: 43 gallons LPGAS: 18 gallons

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