Marinalife Spring 2022

Marinalife Spring 2022

SHARE A FATHER-SON ICW ADVENTURE

SPECIAL SECTION: NEW ENGLAND

TOP 10 NEW ENGLAND SAILING REGATTAS

ENHANC I NG YOUR YACHT I NG L I FESTYLE

marinalife.com SPRING 2022

INTO A NEW BOATING SEASON! Spring

relaxation Chart a course for waypoint N24° 45’ 48’W80° 54’ 40’ and refuel, reload and relax in an island paradise known for some of the best fishing and diving theworld has to offer. Laid back luxury is away of life at Hawks CayMarina. Drop your anchor, tie up and indulge in the incomparable amenities and culinary excellence of our world-class resort while dockedwithin reach of the only living coral reef in the continental U.S. Hawks CayMarina features 85 boat slips, accommodation for vessels up to 110 feet in length, one spectacular resort, five pools, the Key’s only saltwater lagoon, award-winning restaurants and a full-service spa. Dive into

HAWKSCAY.COM | (888) 395-5539

AS FAITHFULLY AS THE TIDES

Ocean Reef is more than a club, it’s family; a family that holds tradition, privacy and belonging at its core. That’s why generations of Members continue to connect and to enjoy the countless amenities all within this private club community.

There are only two ways to experience Ocean Reef Club’s Unique Way of Life – as a guest of a Member or through the pages of Living magazine. Visit OceanReefClubLiving.com or call 305.367.5921 to request your complimentary copy.

AMEN I T I E S I NCLUDE :

„  419 Dry Racks

„  Indoor & Outdoor Event Space „  Clubhouse Access to Private Pool & Beach

„  On-Site Rentals Available „ LL‘s Test Kitchen „  Fitness Facility

( rated for 150 mph winds )

„  101 Wet Slips „  Waterfront Condo Rentals

6000 Peninsular Ave, Key West (305) 292-3121 N 24° 33.850’ W 081° 43.600’ spottswoodmarinas.com

CONTENTS > Spring 2022 IN EVERY ISSUE Editors’ Log 12 / What’s New 14 / Nauti Shopper 22 / Smart Boater 40 / Port Personalities 61 / Captain’s Tips 84 ON THE COVER Edgartown Race Weekend. Photo by Daniel Forster

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95-137 SPECIAL SECTION: NEW ENGLAND

50 EXPLORE MAGICAL BIOLUMINESCENT BAYS Take a kayak trip through lush mangroves and luminous waters. 68 ECO-FRIENDLY BOATING Renewable energy offers perks for boaters and anglers. 76 TALL SHIP ADVENTURES Under sail with the Pride of Baltimore II 90 LEARNING THE ROPES Getting to know our boat and her systems while gaining expertise.

26 Cruise Itinerary

Join a father and son trip up the ICW.

98 Top 10 New England Sailing Regattas Either race or spectate – but don’t miss these exciting events! 106 Explore the Maine Island Trail Cruise the 375-mile water trail that spans the state’s coast. 112 New England’s Calendar of Events Enjoy spring happenings all around the region. 120 Dock&Dine on Long Island Sound (Part 1) Kick back and enjoy the best seafood in the Northeast. 128 New England’s Best Beaches Top spots to unwind in the sand and sun. 136 Destination: Cuttyhunk, MA

44 Cruising with Members

Exploring Antigua by land and sea.

56 Weekend Warrior

Wickford Cove to Block Island, RI.

25 Marina Spotlight Kingman Yacht Center 32 Food & Drink Cruising the Great Loop taught us how to cook 36 Destination Burlington, VT 39 This or That Lobsters v. Crabs 62 Destination Wilmington, NC 67 Marina Spotlight Morningstar Marinas at Little Creek, VA 72 History Nantucket baskets woven by lighthouse boat captains. 146 Cast Off

Marinalife magazine, Vol. 17, Iss. 2 is published quarterly by Marinalife, LLC, 101 West Dickman Street, Suite 1000, Baltimore, MD 21230, 410-752-0505. Annual subscription price $24.99; for subscription (please add $10 for Canadian addresses and $20 for all other international addresses), renewal or change of address, call 410-752-0505 or visit marinalife.com. Periodical Postage paid at the Baltimore, MD, post office and at additional mailing offices. ISSN #2152-2200

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Marinalife, LLC, 101 West Dickman Street, Suite 1000, Baltimore, MD 21230

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TheWorld Awaits As we turn the calendar to a new year, we look forward to new opportunities and a renewed optimism for the future. Now is the time to break free, set sail, and enjoy the world in all her splendor once again.

Your next yacht charter escape awaits. MOORINGS.COM/MARINALIFE | 800 669 6529

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$EDFR%HDFK5HVRUWDQG0DULQDLV Abaco’s premier Oceanfront Resort and Marina in the Out Islands of the Bahamas RIIHULQJDVDIHFOHDQDQGIULHQGO\IXOOVHUYLFHUHVRUW ZLWKPRGHUQJXHVWDPHQLWLHVMXVWPLQXWHVIURPWKHDLUSRUW 1HZVOLSPDULQDIRUYHVVHOVXSWRIWŘ+HOLSDGŘ)XHOŘ0:/RIIWŘKRXU VHFXULW\Ř1HZO\UHPRGHOHGURRPVŘ0XOWLSOHGLQLQJRXWOHWVŘ7ZRSRROVŘ6ZLPXSEDUŘ :DWHUVSRUWVŘ:KLWHVDQGEHDFKŘ*\PŘ/DQGDQGVHDDGYHQWXUHVŘ &RQFLHUJHVHUYLFHVŘ&RQYHQLHQWSURYLVLRQLQJ

Only 165 miles from Florida DQG PLOHVIURP1DVVDXE\ERDW . 877-533-4799 • MARSH HARBOUR • ABACO, THE BAHAMAS WWW.ABACOBEACHRESORT.COM • [email protected]

EDITORS’ LOG >

Dear Fellow Boaters:

NEW FOR YOU – DISCOUNTS ONLINE! Marinalife.com/Discounts

website and new features that enhance your boating lifestyle. In the meantime, we’re excited about kicking off the 2022 boating season. To get you

As the warmth of spring draws boaters back to marinas, we often hear the post-hibernation question, “So, what did you do in the off-season?” Responses run the

geared up for spring, our Special New England Section showcases must-see Regattas & Races in the Northeast, and we share local secrets about the Best Long Island Dock & Dines. If you’re heading north along the ICW this season, don’t miss a heartwarming tale of a father-son journey from Florida to New Jersey along this waterway. And do not forget to snap some shots of your adventures on the water for the Marinalife 2022 Photography Contest (see announcement, p. 16). We wish you safe travels and happy boating,

gamut from planning new cruising destinations to boat repairs or taking a class to hone your boating skills. At Marinalife we were busy, too. During the cool months, we made it easier for you to receive discounts on fuel, dockage and other travel essentials. Now, you can quickly and easily access the Cruising Club Discount Directory online and scroll through thousands of cost-saving deals at our partner marinas. Please visit Marinalife.com/Discounts and tell us what you think about the new digital format. And stay tuned for more exciting changes on the horizon, such as a more user-friendly

Joy McPeters, Marinalife Founder

Susan Elnicki Wade, Editor in Chief

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Marinalife magazine, published four times a year, is focused on the cruising lifestyle. The magazine includes articles on where to cruise, new marina destinations, upcoming events, boating stories and a directory of the many great discounts available to Cruising Club members.

GET CRUISIN’ Joi THE CLUB AND The

EDITOR IN CHIEF Susan Elnicki Wade [email protected]

FOUNDER & PUBLISHER EMERITUS Joy McPeters

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Alexa Zizzi

Cruising Club has everything you need to get underway!

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Liyana Ido

CONTRIBUTORS Bob Arrington Carol Bareuther James R. Barnett Heather Burke Lisa Carruthers Ellen Honey Paul Kekalos Richard Kern Jen Leroux Teri Miller Kate Raulin Carney

AWESOME DEALS Thousands of deals, discounts and promotions to help you boat more and spend less. HELPFUL RESOURCES Access to hundreds of articles featuring great coastal destinations, cruising itineraries, recipes and more.

Victor Walton April Winship

MAGAZINE PRODUCTION Mid-Atlantic Custom Media [email protected] Ebony Brown, Art Director Rachel Levitan, Designer Jay Sevidal, Designer

QUALITY SUPPORT Amazing customer service and the best cruise-planning support available.

DIRECTOR OF SALES Natasha Lee-Putnam 860-227-9190 [email protected]

JOIN TODAY

AND SAVE $8

REGIONAL SALES MANAGERS Amy Krimm, 410-693-8613 Kim Eaton, 401-932-8020 Bob Amberg, 203-257-2448 QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS [email protected]

$ 50 $42 with promo code SNAG8

Marinalife.com/Join

MARINALIFE, LLC 101 West Dickman Street, Suite 1000 Baltimore, MD 21230

Tel: 410-752-0505 Fax: 866-622-9488

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SPRING 2022

WHAT’s new WITH

Marina Updates

Oasis Marinas Expands across New England The marina management company is pleased to announce its growth into New England with three Connecticut properties: Old Harbor Marina in Clinton, Mystic Point Marina in downtown Mystic and Glastonbury Marina (formerly Seaboard Marina) in Glastonbury. Since its founding on the East Coast in 2015, Oasis has spread out rapidly across the United States from the northern Great Lakes to southern Florida. The company is now stepping foot on the West Coast with plans to grow new team members and properties in the future. For updates, visit oasismarinas.com

BY ALEXA ZIZZI

SWITLIK SAR6 Offshore

Pursuit Boats Announces New Model Since 1977, Pursuit Boats has produced high-end, yacht-quality fishing and cruising vessels across tons of locations. Magnificently appointed and highly anticipated with possibilities for every angler, the OS 445 is Pursuit’s largest boat yet. Prepare to cruise in liveaboard luxury with this season’s new model. Visit pursuitboats.com or marinalife.com/ pursuit-concierge-club

SWITLIK Life Rafts are Back for the Season SWITLIK Life Rafts are back in stock, in every variety just in time for spring and summer boating. Short lead times are now offered on survival equipment, rafts and man overboard modules. For more than 100 years, this U.S.-based company has produced high quality safety equipment in Trenton, NJ. Visit switlik.com

Seaboard Marina

Pursuit Boats rendering

Upcoming Boat Shows

Bay Bridge Boat Show Stevensville, MD April 21 - 24, 2022 Suncoast Boat Show Sarasota, FL April 22-24, 2022

2022 Photo Contest Is Open for Submissions! Marinalife is pleased to announce our third annual photo contest, where we welcome snapshots that capture moments of maritime merriment from photographers of all skill levels. For details, see page 16 or visit marinalife.com/2022PhotoContest

Suntex Marinas Lands New Property in New York Suntex Marinas, a premier marina owner and operator, is proud to announce its recent acquisition of Sunset Harbour in Long Island, NY. Situated along the South Shore, this 332-slip marina provides easy access to the lovely Great South Bay. Visit suntexmarinas.com

Annapolis Spring Sailboat Show Annapolis, MD April 29 - May 1, 2022

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No Matter Where You Boat, We’ve Got Your Back These are just some of the faces of your local Chesapeake Bay TowBoatU.S. Captains. We are your friends, neighbors and local boaters who have spent our lives working on the Bay. With a TowBoatU.S. Membership, which is good anywhere you boat, you get community knowledge and fast response from local professional Captains supportedby a national fleet and 24/7 service. No matter where you take your crew there is another local TowBoatU.S. guy, or gal, there for you!

Purchase a Towing Membership today for a year of worry-free boating

Annapolis/Baltimore 410-255-8700

Kent/Knapps Narrows 410-745-3000

Chesapeake City/C&D Canal 410-885-5988

WHAT’S NEW >

to Celebrate the Boating Lifestyle 2022 Photography Contest

Who’s Eligible: Everybody is invited — from amateur shutterbugs to seasoned photographers — to send your favorite shots of what you love most about the cruising lifestyle and high seas adventures. Deadline: Spend the spring and summer taking great shots, then submit your favorite photos to marinalife.com/ 2022PhotoContest by Friday, September 9, 2022. Contest Details

MARINALIFE is pleased to announce this year’s photography contest that showcases the joy of boating and good times on the water. We welcome snapshots that capture moments of maritime merriment — the freedom of getting back on the water after a long winter, a memorable boating experience with family and friends, a special seaside vacation, the thrill of water sports, an epic fishing trip where you reeled in a trophy catch, or the face of a pet who’s too cute for words. Whatever floats your boat, we’d like to see it.

What to Submit: Limit of up to 3 photos per person, send high resolution images (300 dpi, 2 mb or 600 kb). Please include a brief description of the photo’s location, the photographer’s credit, and the contact info, email and phone. Winners: Our staff will select the first, second and third place winners and runners up whose photographs will appear in upcoming issues of Marinalife . Prizes will be announced soon.

For details, go to marinalife.com/2022PhotoContest or email questions to [email protected]

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SPRING 2022

YOUR TOWING MEMBERSHIP IS JUST THE BEGINNING. Sea Tow ® membership advantages go far beyond 24/7 towing with local navigation, mishap prevention, and getting members back underway by troubleshooting first. When on-water assistance is needed, Sea Tow Captains are on-scene in an average of 1-hour or less. Are you a member?

ADD SEA TOW TO YOUR CRUISING CLUB MEMBERSHIP AND GET THE FULL EXPERIENCE ON THE WATER. marinalife.com

DOCK. DINE. STAY. Play!

40-ACRES OF FUN

The largest deep-water marina in the Florida Keys, The Perry Hotel & Marina is more than just a marina — it’s a world-class destination. Featuring the award-winning Perry Hotel, two waterfront pools, three dockside restaurants, an entire village of experiences right at your fingertips, and 5-star service, we guarantee an unforgettable Key West getaway.

7005 SHRIMP ROAD | KEY WEST, FLORIDA 33040 PERRYKEYWEST.COM | 855.421.0551

A LIFETIME OF ADVENTURE BEGINS HERE.

DOWNTOWN SARASOTA, FL APRIL 22-24, 2022 SUNCOASTBOATSHOW.COM

Visit our remarkable destination along the ICW and explore the enchantment of Amelia Island, Florida!

For more information and to book your slip, visit fernandinaharbormarina.com or call 904-310-3300

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NAUTI SHOPPER > BY ALEXA ZIZZI

NECESSITIES Beach Party

Whether you’re playing competitive games or relaxing with friends and family, celebrate spring by throwing a beach party.

BEACH TOYS HYDRO FORCE TROPICAL BREEZE ISLAND FLOAT Bestway

Stay cool, calm and comfortable on this inflatable breeze raft. Up to six people can recline on pillow backrests under a protective sunshade with easy access to cup holders for drinks. Complete with a swim-up platform, this raft lets you while away the day. ($229.99) vminnovations.com CRUISE CARBON SUP PACKAGE Bluefin If you’re in the mood for an exciting day on the water, Bluefin’s inflatable stand-up paddleboard gives the ultimate thrill. Your watersport buddies will love riding the waves on this advanced board. Complete with a kayak conversion kit and carbon rail and paddle, the board is customizable, so you can pick one shaped perfectly for you. ($699) bluefinsupboards.com

TROPICAL PALAPA RAFFIA TIKI HUT HAWAIIAN HULA BEACH UMBRELLA EasyGo

Create your dream tiki party with this Hawaiian thatch patio umbrella. No need to worry about a windy day, because this umbrella is made of natural, weatherproof material. Grab a towel, a fruity drink and crank the reggae as you kick back under this eco-friendly tiki hut. ($119.77) easygo-products.myshopify.com

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Cruise Carbon SUP Package

Dometic Powered Cooler

Flamingo Toss

Tropical Palapa Beach Umbrella

PARTY PLANNING ROBOCUP PORTABLE CADDY RoboCup This multifunctional utility caddy provides a double cup holder and securely holds various items including fishing poles, tools, phones and keys. The spring-loaded clamps have a durable grip with UV-inhibitors to protect the resilient plastic material against the sun. ($24.99) therobocup.com

HELINOX BEACH CHAIR Helinox Stick your feet in the sand and your face to the sun with this cozy beach lounger. The supportive back and neck rest allows for long-term comfort while sitting around in social gatherings. This beach chair converts to a pillow, so it’s easily compactable. ($149.95) helinox.com/collections/beach-chair

TIDALBALL BEACH GAME TidalBall

This unique game is a fun twist on bocce ball combined with cornhole. You play by digging four-inch holes and trenches on each side to make a sandy court, and throwing an eight-ounce ball into the hole to receive points. What began as a Lowcountry classic game birthed on the sands of Folly Beach, SC, has blossomed into a popular item to bring along for beach parties. ($24.99) tidalball.com

FUN & GAMES TIPSY TOSS GAME SET GoSports

FLAMINGO RING TOSS Savita

DOMETIC CFX3 25 POWERED COOLER Dometic

This pretty pink flamingo ring toss is a perfect go-to for a beach or pool party. It’s fun for tropical-themed events or just a chill day on the water. Toss a ring around the inflatable flamingo’s neck and watch this classic game be a hit with friends. ($49.24) fishpond.com

Give your strength and balance the ultimate challenge and bring this classic lawn game to the beach party. The Tipsy Toss full set includes two target poles, two bottles, one flying disc and a portable carrying case. Get extra competitive with this high-energy game and drop the other team’s bottle off the pole with the flying disc to score. ($39.99) playgosports.com

Combining deep-freeze capabilities with power consumption, the Dometic cooler keeps items fresh all day long. It’s built with fender frames for outdoor durability and has a user-friendly interface for the powered cooler controls. The options may be a bit pricey, but the long-lasting guarantee will not disappoint. ($899.99) dometic.com

Hydro Force Tropical Breeze Island Float

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SPRING 2022

MARINA SPOTLIGHT > CATAUMET, MA

KINGMAN YACHT CENTER

BY ALEXA ZIZZI

MILES OF LUSH FOLIAGE, hiking trails and stunning Cape Cod views make up the tranquil scene at Kingman Yacht Center. This New England gem is an historic property and community along the northeast corner of Buzzards Bay.The spacious, full-service marina boasts 235 slips in renovated floating docks, as well as 130 moorings.That’s room for 365 boats — one for every day of the year! With easy access through the seven- mile canal, this destination is ideal for boaters looking for a calm, rural escape. Established in 1932, the site was originally a boat-building center for the U.S. Army, Navy and aircraft rescue boats during mili- tary conflicts such as the Korean War. The Kingman family ran this location until they sold it to current owner Scott Zeien in 2000. “It became a recreational

marina in the ‘50s. I grew up sailing here, and it really hasn’t changed much in terms of the personality and the harbor,” says Zeien. “Our premier boatyard is a community of boaters enjoying one of the most beautiful natural harbors in New England.” This retreat is centrally focused around two brands that make KYC: Kingman Yacht Center and Kingman Yacht Club, a thriving marina, service and sales facility, as well as social club where transients and members can enjoy exclusive benefits. Poised on a hilltop overlooking the marina, Red Brook Harbor Club townhomes span a luxury community alongside aquaculture farming and a water treatment plant that filters pollution out of local waterways. KYC’s on-site service center offers anything a boater could imagine such as repair, repower, electrical and more.

Marina amenities include gas and diesel, laundry, yacht valet services, plus dock and dine. Check out Buzzards Bay Yacht Sales boat dealer and yacht broker- age for convenient, top-of-the-line vessels. The marina’s famous Chart Room Restaurant serves fresh seafood garnished with beautiful sunsets from spring to fall. Try everything from fresh steamed mussels and seasonal fish to the creamy Chart Room Chowder. From May to October, KYC hosts weekly on-site activities, cruising rendez- vous and events such as seminars, live music on the barge, fishing tournaments, lobster boil dinners and much more. m l

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/KingmanYachtCenter

Hawks Cay Marina

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CRUISING ITINERARY > ICW

JOIN A FATHER & SON TRIP UP THE ICW

BY PAUL KEKALOS

With lessons learned along the way

“Might as well get going” said my dad as we stood on the dock, fresh out of things to prepare. I laughed to myself and replied, “Yeah, I guess we might as well.”That conversation plays out in my head every time I set out on a boat — a sign that all preparations are complete, and it’s time to start the trip. When my father asked me to help him deliver his Hatteras 40 from Charleston to Cape May via the ICW, I jumped at the chance to return to a special place in my life (I spent my summers in Cape May growing up) and spend bonding time with my dad. But I was not without apprehension. It would be my first trip on the ICW, his first in years, and the first on a new-to-him vessel. While I spend a lot of time on the water as a sailor, the twin diesels of the Hatteras were new to me. As we were about to push off, dolphins showed up, easing the inevitable start-of-voyage jitters that accompany any trip. As we turned into Charleston Harbor and pointed toward the markers at the entrance to the first portion of the waterway heading north, our three dolphin friends escorted us through the channel markers. I took it as a good sign.

Paul Kekalos and his father

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Charleston, SC

Starting Point: Charleston, SC Estimated Mileage: 48 NM

ICW Canal connecting Pungo River with Alligator River

We were warned that the first stretch of waterway was known for scattered shallow spots in the first few miles, but we found none. As waterfront homes of Sullivan’s Island and Isle of Palms slowly peeled away to reveal the quiet wilderness of the Santee Coastal Reserve, I thought, “This is the ICW I imagined.” Pristine, undeveloped and peaceful. In the coming days, I would learn this was only part of the story. We pulled into Georgetown for the evening, and our first day was behind us. With that came the simple lesson: the only way to get over the nervousness of a trip is to start the journey. We slept well that night knowing we had done so. Leg 1: Georgetown, SC to Southport, NC Estimated Mileage: 72 NM Leaving Georgetown and heading north up the Waccamaw River, the previous afternoon’s tranquility continued.The soft light over the marshlands showed that ours was the only wake in sight, save for a few passing southbound boats. It was an easy way to start the day. And then …Myrtle Beach ... on a Saturday... in June. The morning peacefulness gave way to a bustling stretch of waterway filled with all sorts of people enjoying the day — center consoles, water skiers, kayakers, stand-up paddlers, floating tiki bars. Mile after mile of developed waterfront checked

Beaufort, NC

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SPRING 2022

our speed and changed our perspective. Eventually, we cleared through the beautiful chaos of Myrtle Beach, crossed into North Carolina and preceded toward that night’s destination, Southport, NC. This was our first time experiencing the wonderful ICW phenomenon of just pulling over to dock on the proverbial “side of the road.”We settled into the facing fuel dock at Southport Marina and marveled at how the ICW contains multitudes of experiences. Leg 2: Southport to Beaufort, NC Estimated Mileage: 83 NM The weather was mostly settled with morning showers, and thunderstorms were predicted, but clear skies were forecasted for the afternoon. Only on Day 3, we still were under the misguided illusion that the schedule was ours to keep. We wanted to cover some ground today, so we ducked out of the well-marked and relatively easy Masonboro Inlet for an “outside” run up the Atlantic to Beaufort, NC. As we approached the Inlet, a local Sunday morning sailing race was underway. Half the fleet made it out of the inlet with us before we heard on the radio that the race committee was recalling the fleet due to approaching thunderstorms. We debated staying inside, but the weather quickly passed us, and we rode the gentle swell up to Beaufort Inlet. It was good to get in the miles by going outside the ICW, but we realized that was not the point of this trip. Leaving the ICW, we missed the variety that the waterway provides. We stayed “inside” for the rest of the trip to enjoy the view. Leg 3: Beaufort to Belhaven, NC Estimated Mileage: 50 NM On a trip up the ICW, you discover it’s anything but a highway. Leaving Beaufort, we noted how the waterway that we experienced thus far was a straight-line narrow cut with land close by on either side, often called the proverbial “ditch.”

Norfolk’s busy harbor

weather that you’d rather not see.The past four days were pretty good weather-wise, so we were due for something else. Pulling out of Belhaven in light sprinkles and overcast skies, we entered the famed Alligator-Pungo River Canal.This is truly “the ditch”— 21 miles of a virtual straight line that connects the Pungo and Alligator Rivers. It is narrow and long, and it helps to see where you are going. Fortunately, the weather cooperated, and we navigated the canal with ease. But just as we emerged into the wide-open Alligator River, heavy rains and stiff squalls closed in around us. I’m always nervous with weather, but my dad has a measured demeanor, so he put me at ease. We picked our way from buoy to buoy and emerged from the storm just as we passed

But the ICW also provides moments of wide-open beauty. Heading out of Beaufort and north up Adams Creek, the ICW gives way to the relative vastness of the Neuse River and Pamlico Sound. Navigation aids are more spaced out, and the wind waves have more room to gather up. We traveled a short stretch of the Sound, pulled into beautiful Belhaven Marina for the night and found the sleepy but utterly charming town was a great place to stop. Leg 4: Belhaven to Coinjock, NC Estimated Mileage: 58 NM

Years of boating taught me that you seldom go five days without seeing

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through Alligator River Swing Bridge and started across Albemarle Sound for the evening’s destination, Coinjock Marina & Restaurant. Here I learned the real lesson of the day — order the prime rib! Leg 5: Coinjock, NC to Norfolk, VA Estimated Mileage: 34 NM On every trip, you reach a point where you’ve gone over the hump. With five days of ICW behind us, we hit that point and could sense a change coming. We left Coinjock and picked our way across the long, shallow Currituck Sound into Virginia. As we wound our way through the meandering and pristine North Landing River Natural Area Preserve, both of us were excited to make Norfolk that evening and enter the Chesapeake for our final stretch. Several bridges are on this stretch of the ICW, but our timing was good, and we passed each without much wait. Sliding through the Great Bridge Locks, we approached Norfolk. The city and its surrounding waterways’ bustle was an absolute eye-opener after the past few days. It made the pace of Myrtle Beach seem bucolic.We slept well, knowing that we had come to mile zero on the ICW safely. Leg 6: Chesapeake Bay: Norfolk, VA to Chesapeake & Delaware Canal Estimated Mileage: 200 NM If approaching Norfolk from the south is eye-opening, then traveling into the

Cape May Beach Avenue from the sea

Chesapeake past the heart of the Naval docks is something else entirely. Mile after mile of grey steel. More naval ships that I’d ever seen in one place. Amazing! And just like that, you pass over Hampton Roads Tunnels, enter the Chesapeake and you’re back to wide-open beauty. Our time in the Bay was a bit rushed. I had to return to commitments at home, so we had to get in some miles now.The plan: proceed to Solomons for a night and then reach the C&D Canal. However, our optimistic timetable did not stop the Chesapeake from dealing us a few lessons along the way. The Chesapeake does not care about your schedule.The weather was too crummy in Solomons to leave, so we wisely decided to stay an extra day. When we finally poked out of the Patuxent River, we realized the residual effects of the rain was still evident.The Bay delivered a wild ride, with wind, rain, short chop and limited visibility for a few hours. We pondered cutting our day short, but the

weather lifted quickly. By the time we passed Annapolis, blue skies and flat seas surrounded us all the way to the C&D Canal. It was amazing how quickly and dramatically conditions on the Bay changed for the better. Leg 7: Chesapeake City to Cape May, NJ Estimated Mileage: 54 NM After transiting the C&D Canal and entering the Delaware Bay for the final stretch, we were truly in “home waters.” But despite the time I spent on the Bay growing up, I had never navigated a boat down this tricky body of water.The Delaware is busy, with a narrow channel and many big working boats.We hugged the channel’s edge as we made our way down the Bay leaving ample room for others. As the bay widened out, we plotted our approach to Cape May Harbor. Our entry took us through the Cape May Canal and into the harbor, then on to the boats’ summer berth, not far from where I had spent my childhood summers.With the trip virtually complete, we experienced the bittersweet feeling of nearing our destination. And the final stretch provided perhaps the best lesson of all: When you get the opportunity to bring a boat from one place to another with your old man, take it.

Chesapeake Delaware Canal

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/FatherSonTripICW

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HILTON HEAD ISLAND, SC S HELTER C OVE M ARINA

Located in the middle of Hilton Head Island across from Palmetto Dunes Oceanfront Resort and just off the Intracoastal Waterway, Shelter Cove Harbour & Marina offers easy access to great shopping & restaurants plus bikes, watersports, golf, tennis & pickleball. The Ship’s Store offers a large selection of apparel, accessories, convenience items & fishing tackle.

• Floating docks / vessels up to 150' • Electrical: 30, 50, 100 amp • 9' MLW, well marked channel • Pump-out boat • Monitor channel 16/71 • Restrooms, showers, laundry • Grocery store nearby • Full service yacht maintenance • Wi-Fi internet access & cable available • Seasonal resort shuttle • 70' transient dock at the slip fuel & pump-out for convenience

1 SHELTER COVE LN, HILTON HEAD ISLAND, SC 29928 • 844-264-0981 • SHELTERCOVEHILTONHEAD.COM

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Introducing: T he 2022

I dea h ouse

Overlooking the Harbor - Boaters Welcome! Enjoy tours from July - December

(800) 348-7618 | ICWMM 173 | R IveR d unes . com Book your next ICW stop and enjoy more than an award-winning, protected marina with Dockage up to 130’, Fuel & Deep Water Slips. Onshore, tour the harborside Idea House, enjoy the thriving Harbor Village, waterfront dining, pool, luxurious spa, and more.

 O R A N G E B E A C H M A R I N A

Haven or Heaven Enjoy the experience.

Outstanding On Site Services and Local Attractions • Exceptional Marina Staff • Upscale Dock Store • 2 Restaurants On Site • Courtesy Cars & Ample Parking - Dockside & Upstairs ‡'RFNDJHWR· • Saunders Marine Center • Covered Grilling & Picnic Areas • 24 Hour Security • Laundry Center • 6 Bay Fuel Dock • Private Shower & Restrooms • Free Wi-Fi & Cable TV  MOBILE BIG GAME FISHING CLUB

2016 - Best Large Marina 1st Place 2017 - Best Large Marina 1st Place 2018 - Best Large Marina 2nd Place 2019 - Best Large Marina 1st Place

Relax. Every need is met at our beautifully secluded, secure location with coveredd and open slips availabale. Enjoy on site waterfront dining and shopping as your yacht gets all the attention it needs with on site service and repair. Located just minutes from the Gulf of Mexico at Perdidio Pass and the Intracoastal Waterway 27075 Marina Road • Orange Beach, AL • 251.981.4207 • OrangeBeachMarina.com

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FOOD&DRINK >

Cruising the Great Loop Taught Us How to Cook BY KATE RAULIN CARNEY

B EFORE EMBARKING on the Great Loop, my husband Tim and I lived in New York City, which helped prepare us somewhat for life on the water. We took our clothes to a laundromat, hand washed our dishes, and understood the challenges of living in a small space. But given it’s one of the culinary capitals of the world, living in Manhattan didn’t teach us how to cook. Since living on our boat, a 31-foot 1996 Camano Troll named Sweet Day, we had to change our relationship with the kitchen, which means we actually had to use it. Here’s what we learned. Be creative with what we have While cruising the Great Loop, we imagined tiki bars and restaurants dotting

the shorelines everywhere we stopped. This is definitely true in some parts. But more times than expected, we found ourselves nowhere near a place to grab a meal, much less a grocery store. This means we’ve learned how to build meals with what we have onboard. We also realized that as long as we have flour and a little butter, homemade tortillas can easily transform a couple sides into tasty tacos and easily impress neighbors at the next docktail party. Rarely waste food In the daily hustle of our lives in the city, we ended up wasting a lot more food than we’d like to admit.The opposite has been true while cruising.We typically buy enough fresh food for three to four meals, because that’s all we can fit in our fridge. A home- cooked dinner is easily stretched to lunch the

next day. And since we travel with our fridge, leftovers never get left behind. No need for fancy kitchen gadgets We have a small propane oven and a three-burner stove. We can use these with barely any electricity, making cooking underway and at anchor seamless. When we’re plugged into a marina or if we run our generator, we can also use our microwave (when it’s not being used as a food pantry). Some cruisers have Instapots and other gadgets, but our boat isn’t set up to handle that amount of electricity. Plus, we don’t have the space. So, we’ve had to learn (with a lot of practice) how to cook juicy chicken or tender salmon without the benefits of modern cooking technology.

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Access our kitchen 24/7 One of the biggest (and underrated) benefits of cruising is that your stuff travels with you, including your kitchen. This means we can make a marinade while cruising and cook the chicken at anchor that night. Or knead a loaf of bread underway to make sure it’s ready to bake the next day. Plus, you never have to worry about forgetting olive oil or spices when on a trip. Spending time and experiment- ing in the kitchen helps break up those long cruising days too, all while rewarding us with a tasty meal once we reach our destination. Know the steps ahead of time to plan a meal One quirk of our galley is we can only run the oven or the stove, as our propane system can’t support running both at the same time. As a result, it requires knowing the recipe and its steps in advance to ensure we have the right equipment and ability to cook the meal. If the meal is good enough to be part of the rotation, the steps become easier to remember the next time we cook it.

Learn what meals we can make quickly Just like land life, there are days when we may feel excited about prepping and cooking a more time-intensive meal, and others when we’re hungry, it’s 7:00 p.m. and we just need to get something in our stomach. In New York, that meant heading downstairs for a slice of pizza. That doesn’t work while cruising. Learning what meals take time (especially in Sweet Day’s kitchen) and what meals can be thrown together quickly (hello mac and cheese and tuna fish) is extremely helpful. When we’re stocking up on food, we make sure we have enough of those go-to meal items for those inevitable times when we just need something fast. To help you stock your galley, here are some of our favorite items: • High-quality all-purpose knife: Our Zwilling Santoku knife cuts pretty much everything we’ve cooked in the last year. • Dutch oven: This is perfect for baking fresh bread, making soups, rice and other meals. We store it in the oven while not in use.

• Stainless steel French press: We didn’t want to have to rely on electricity to make coffee, so our go-to is a sturdy French press. Plus, it’s fun to get beans from local coffee shops. • New York Times cooking subscription: This app allows us to easily search tons of recipes and discover new dishes with ingredients we have on board. • Pre-cut parchment paper: I learned this from my dad. It keeps food from sticking to the pan and makes cleaning easy — a big plus on a tiny boat, where you may need to clean the pan quickly to put another item in the oven.

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To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/GreatLoopCooks

SIMPLE FLOUR TORTILLAS Here’s our go-to recipe for an easy batch of tortillas. Some of our favorite ingredients for stuffing inside are pantry staples — black beans and rice or roasted sweet potatoes with a charred scallion crema (Greek yogurt, mayo and scallions charred on a hot skillet). INGREDIENTS 2½ cups of all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon of baking powder ½ teaspoon of salt ¼ cup room temperature butter (Can also replace with shortening, lard or vegetable oil) 7/8 to 1 cup of hot water INSTRUCTIONS 1. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt.

2. Add the butter (if you’re using vegetable oil, add it in step 3). Use your fingers to work the fat into the flour until it disappears. 3. Pour in the lesser amount of hot water (plus the oil, if you’re using it), and stir briskly with a fork or whisk to bring the dough together into a shaggy mass. Stir in additional water as needed to bring the dough together. 4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter and knead briefly, just until the dough forms a ball. If the dough is very sticky, gradually add a bit more flour. 5. Divide the dough into 8 pieces. Round the pieces into balls, flatten slightly and allow them to rest, covered, for about 30 minutes. If you wish, coat each ball lightly in oil before covering to ensure the dough doesn’t dry out.

6. While the dough rests, preheat an ungreased cast iron griddle or skillet over medium high heat, about 400°F. 7. Working with one piece of dough at a time, roll into a round about 8 inches in diameter. Keep the remaining dough covered while you work. Fry the tortilla in the ungreased pan for about 30 seconds on each side. Wrap the tortilla in a clean cloth when it comes off the griddle to keep it pliable. Repeat with the remaining dough balls. 8. If you have leftovers, allow them to cool completely, then wrap tightly in plastic and store in the refrigerator. Reheat in an ungreased skillet or for a few seconds in the microwave. Recipe is from King Arthur Baking Company, kingarthurbaking.com/ recipes/simple-tortillas-recipe. To follow Kate and Tim Carney’s cruising adventures aboard Sweet Day , go to lifeonsweetday.com or @lifeonsweetday on Instagram

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DESTINATION > BURLINGTON, VT

Burlington Breakwater North Lighthouse

Park at University of Vermont Burlington

Church Street marketplace fountain

Burlington Battery Park

Explore the Spirited Lakefront of BURLINGTON, VT BY ELLEN HONEY

A vibrant, compact city hugging the eastern shoreline of Lake Champlain, Burlington abounds in scenic beauty, four-season recreation, a college town vibe, arts and culture, and a quirky character all its own. Eclectic shops named Anjou & the Little Pear or Common Deer, and restaurants called Zabby & Elf ’s Stone Soup or The Skinny Pancake dot the urban landscape. A local artist’s satirical

comment on the bureaucracy of urban planning called File Under So. Co., Waiting for…, consists of 38 filing cabinets welded together to a 40-foot height. Birds frequently nest in the upper chambers. History buffs stroll through the Ethan Allen Homestead Museum or the Fleming Museum of Art’s multi-era artifact collection while hikers trek the 12.5-mile path at Burlington

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WHERE TO DOCK

Burlington Community Boathouse Marina 802-865-3377 This full-service marina is the centerpiece of a growing waterfront. Amenities include 105 slips up to 65 feet, Splash Café and a fantastic sunset over the Adirondacks. Burlington Harbor Marina 802-540-6869 With 160 slips (60 transient slips up to 80 feet), this new marina’s tranquil harbor setting is convenient to downtown amenities and recreational activities.

Church Street

WHERE TO DINE

Honey Road 802-497-2145 Savor sophisticated Mediterranean small plates, cocktails and creative desserts in a comfy tavern setting.

The Farmhouse Tap & Grill 802-859-0888

This farm-to-table gastropub dishes up local burgers, charcuterie and innovative specials. Sip on local brews in the beer garden.

RíRá 802-860-9401

According to Irish playwright Brendan Behan, “The most important things to do in the world are to get something to eat, something to drink and somebody to love you.” RíRá fuses classic Irish with pub grub to satisfy the first two.

Leunig’s Bistro & Café 802-863-3759

Step inside the lush garden courtyard to watch fresh local fruit, vegetables, meat and seafood transform into classic French dishes. Come enjoy a romantic evening meal.

Hen of the Wood 802-540-0534

Waterfront Park, which offers bicycle, rollerblade and kayak rentals. In season, the path connects to the Lake Champlain Islands via bike ferry. Since the 1800s, the Old North End has been the city’s melting pot, and global cuisine from Nepalese dumplings to the African Market can be found here today. Between munches, stroll over to historic Elmwood Cemetery, whose residents include Revolutionary War soldiers. Hear their stories and perhaps have a chance encounter with a local spirit on a Queen City Ghostwalk Tour. Liquid spirits rule when the internationally famous, regionally beloved and hidden gem breweries line up for the annual Vermont Brewers Festival. Year round, enjoy homemade bratwurst and drafts at Zero Gravity Craft Beer. At acclaimed Foam Brewers, the patio faces Lake Champlain waterfront and the Adirondack Mountains. Hop on the Sip of Burlington Brew Tour for a dozen tastings and the sights of this dynamic, energetic city. m l

Enjoy a true Vermont dining experience in a romantic, rustic atmosphere adjacent to the Hotel Vermont.

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/BurlingtonVermont

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SPRING 20 2

Dock in beautiful St. Michaels, MD Open every day, CBMM’s members-only Marina offers 55 slips with electric, pump-out services, climate-controlled showers, Wi-Fi, and other amenities. Overnight docking privileges are available for Mariner Level members and above. Hourly docking is available for Household members and above. Call 410-745-4946 or email [email protected] to make your reservation. Not a member? Call 410-745-4991 to join or visit cbmm.org/join.

The adventure of a lifetime America’s Great Loop 2+ Countries • 14+ States and Provinces

Save $ 20 on a new AGLCA membership. Use code MLGR8LOOP at checkout.

CRUISERS’ ASSOCIATION TM

100+ Locks • 5,250+ Miles... ... all aboard your own boat!

Are you ready for a journey that is both high-adventure and low-risk? Join our group of likeminded boaters exploring the 6,000-mile waterway known as the Great Loop. There’s no better way to travel extensively while remaining socially distant than aboard your own vessel! Whether you’re brand new to the idea of the Great Loop, actively planning your trip, or ready to drop the dock lines and head out, we offer something for you! Visit us at www.greatloop.org or call 877-GR8-LOOP

Membership in America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association includes: • Access to hundreds of harbor hosts to assist you with local knowledge around the route • Participation in our discussion forum that offers a deep-dive into Great Loop-related questions and topics • Webinars exclusively for members • Discounts on dockage, fuel, equipment.... • Monthly digital magazines and newsletters • Access to our distinctive AGLCA burgee • Members-only events • and so much more!

A G L C A

A G L C A

A G L C A

TM

TM

TM

Join us for the AGLCA Spring Rendezvous Norfolk, VA • May 2 – 5, 2022 • Details at www.greatloop.org

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BATTLE OF THE CRUSTACEANS: LOBSTERS VS. CRABS WHICH SHELLFISH TAKES THE THRONE AS KING OF THE SEA?

THIS OR THAT >

BY ALEXA ZIZZI

LOBSTER

CRAB

BEST REGION FOR THE SEASON

More than 6,000 species of crabs across the world vary in everything from appearance to taste. For example, Maryland crab fans meticulously pick the meat from under the crab’s shell, while in Florida, they split open the legs and claws for a tasty treat. To experience the best Maryland blue crabs, visit cities such as Baltimore and Annapolis, as well as Kent Island on the Chesapeake Bay’s Eastern Shore and Solomons Island in southern Maryland.

New England and Canada are known as major lobster hubs along the Atlantic, and Maine is one of the most famous regions in the world for these mouth-watering delicacies. For the freshest catch, Maine’s top lobster-loving towns include Rockland, Bar Harbor, Belfast, Georgetown, Harpswell, Kennebunk and Ogunquit.

HABITAT

Typically found in saltwater or brackish water, thousands of different crab species live in all of the world’s oceans. Like lobsters, some are land-crawlers. Many solely live in the water and others inhabit the edges along rocks and sandy shores. The best crustacean havens for crabbing include Maryland, Virginia and Delaware. Florida stone crabs are found in southern waters in shallow, rocky locations including knee-deep seagrass beds and reefs.

Although they are mostly ocean creatures, lobsters do frequently appear on land and sea. They are omnivores and sometimes eat their own when confined or stressed. You can find them throughout the world’s oceans in freshwater and brackish environments. Some of the most delicious species are caught in the Gulf of Maine and along coastal Nova Scotia.

TRADITIONAL RECIPES

Pick-and-eat crab feasts are a beloved pastime across the mid-Atlantic region. Catch, steam, season, crack open and scarf down! Use a mallet to break the claws open and get the good thick meat. Two varieties of crab soup — creamy or tomato-based — are popular along the East Coast, as well as dishes such as crab dip, crab Rangoon, crab pretzels and best of all — the world-famous Maryland crab cakes.

The sweet taste of lobster pairs well with your taste buds in any variation. Cook it in a gamut of dishes from steaming, grilling or boiling, to chopped-up in a warm soup or cold salad. Some of the most famous classics include a New England lobster boil, baked lobster tail, lobster mac and cheese, creamy bisque and much more.

FUN FACTS

Crabs are typically an aggressive crustacean and often fight with other crabs and aquatic creatures. They can walk in any direction and mostly scurry sideways. Unlike lobsters that can live to age 100, Atlantic crabs only survive for three to four years. Dungeness Crabs from Alaska can live up to 13 years, and the Japanese spider crab has the longest lifespan of all its fellow crustaceans, often reaching 80 to 100 years old.

Lobsters actually have two stomachs and can detach a limb and grow it back during their molting cycle. Today, lobsters are among the pricier seafood selections and are considered a delicacy, but that wasn’t always the case. In early 19th century New England, lobsters were so abundant that their shells were used as fertilizer and their meat was fed to pigs as scraps.

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SMART BOATER >

How your Tax Dollars Make Boating Better BY BOB ARRINGTON

U.S. Coast Guard

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S pring can be a mixed bag for many of our readers, for those in the northern latitudes who are looking forward to boating again, it’s also time to prepare your annual tax returns. Even if you’re civic minded, it’s easy to ask yourself exactly what do I get from all this money I pay the government? It just so happens boaters get more than the average citizen. Federal, state and local governments use a portion of the money they collect in taxes each year to support your favorite pastime. Actually, a surprising amount of money is spent annually to make boating safer and more enjoyable. Keeping You Safely on Course Let’s begin with one of the most important yet least appreciated govern- ment agencies: the U. S. Coast Guard. I don’t mean just in the comfort we get knowing they’re there to save our bacon when we get in over our head. Can you imagine what it would be like to boat without navigation aids? No markers to tell if you’re in the channel or about to run aground? Put a price on the haul-out and repair from tearing up props and rudders, and you can already see tax dollars going back into your pocket. You can thank the men and women of the Coast Guard for being out in all kinds of weather making sure our route is clearly marked.

Keeping the marked channels dredged is a combined effort with funds provided by federal, state and local governments. Boaters regularly navigating the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), may not think enough is spent on dredging and maintaining it, and they might be correct, but we can be thankful the Coast Guard does a good job of keeping the markers moved to identify where deeper water runs through trouble spots. Watching the Weather for You Your favorite navigation app or chart plotter couldn’t work without the information National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) provides for embedded charts. If you still use paper charts, you’re equally dependent on NOAA for those as well. NOAA also operates the National Weather Service. Can you imagine going boating without accurate weather forecasts? How about planning a day of fishing and not being able to predict what the wind and waves will be? Staying safe on the water involves staying in touch with help and services on shore, as well as other boaters around you. The Coast Guard and NOAA made this easier with advanced features in VHF radio

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