Snag-A-Slip: Marinalife Summer Edition 2022

Snag-A-Slip: Marinalife Summer Edition 2022

marinalife.com SUMMER 2022

Let’s Make This Summer Sizzle!

LONG ISLAND DOCK & DINES

CHESAPEAKE MUSIC EVENTS & FESTIVALS

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“A totally pain-free sailing experience.”

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The View

W hat is it that makes us passionately crave the water view? Why are we willing to spend hundreds of thousands more for a home on the water versus the identical home without that view? As summer starts to warm up I watch my waterfront view overlooking the West River, off the Chesapeake Bay, majestically change with so many vibrant colors and wildlife. I can’t help but wonder what it is that touches our soul and causes us to pause and take it all in. Yes it’s pretty, but I feel it’s something much more than just pretty. There are many beautiful views such as mountains, valleys, and rolling country hills. However here on the Chesapeake Bay we

have something that I feel is truly special. Something that touches us deep inside because not only is it pretty, it’s the water and everything the water brings to us that is absolutely incredible. It’s the early morning sunrise with fishing boats heading out for the day’s catch and the sunshine and warm summer afternoons filled with energy and excitement. It’s watching osprey fish with incredible aerial acrobatics while keeping a watchful eye on their young, or the great blue heron stalking its prey in the shallows. It’s those evening sunsets with the sky so brilliantly lit. The Bay is like an ever- changing canvas of art constantly providing us with a brand new picture.

in all the beauty that is right outside your door. If my team and I can help you with that, by all means, please reach out to us. I would also just love to hear from you and hear what it is that takes your breath away by living on the water. “John August” Johnson at [email protected] or 410-867-0407

Here on the Chesapeake Bay, we get to see all the different seasons unfold in front of us. So I ask, what is it about living on the water that makes your stress just fall away and brings that unique level of peace? If you love boating and being on the water, have you considered building a custom home or remodeling your current home on the water? Our clients come to us because they have been told that we fully understand the passion and love of living on the water. At Creative Spaces Remodeling, a design/build firm, we specialize in waterfront homes, custom homes and major remodels. My suggestion is to make sure your home is designed to allow you to embrace and partake

CONTENTS > Summer 2022

ON THE COVER Young people having fun during a party on a private boat. Photo by jacoblund

IN EVERY ISSUE Editors’ Log 12 / What’s New 14 / Nauti Shopper 22 / Smart Boater 40 / Port Personalities 61 / Captain’s Tips 84

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95-137 SPECIAL SECTION: THE CHESAPEAKE BAY 98 Chesapeake Bay Calendar of Events Enjoy summer happenings all around the region. 102 What’s New on the Chesapeake Bay Updates straight from the docks. 106 Chesapeake Seafood Houses Meet newcomers to the Bay’s waterfront bar & restaurant scene. 112 Virginia’s Historic Triangle Cruise to places that founded America. 122 The Sounds of Summer Waterside music festivals and concert series along the Chesapeake Bay. 134 What’s Brewing in Baltimore? A destination guide to craft beers in the neighborhood.

32 BEST SECLUDED BEACHES ON THE EAST COAST 50 WOMEN’S BOATING CLUBS & GROUPS 68 ECO-FRIENDLY BOATING Lake Erie: A restoration saga. 76 SPECTACULAR SPANS A tour of America’s great bridges. 88 DOCK & DINE ON LONG ISLAND SOUND (Part 2) The New York side of the Sound.

26 Cruise Itinerary

Cartagena, Colombia: A worthy destination

44 Cruising with Members

Adventures from Detroit to Port Huron

56 Weekend Warrior Lewes, DE, to Penn’s Landing, Philadelphia, PA

18 Destination Jamestown, RI 25 Marina Spotlight Steelpointe Harbor Marina 36 Destination Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario 39 This or That C&D Canal vs. Cape Cod Canal 62 Destination Camden, ME 67 Marina Spotlight Danfords Hotel, Marina & Spa 72 History The “Fishy Side” of Ocean City, MD 128 Food & Drink Cappy’s Crabs & the Chesapeake Feast 146 Cast Off

Marinalife magazine, Vol. 17, Iss. 3 is published quarterly by Marinalife, LLC, 921 E. Fort Avenue, Suite 225, Baltimore, MD 21230, 410-752-0505. Annual subscription price $24.99; for subscription (please add $10 for Canadian addresses and $20 for all other international addresses), renewal or change of address, call 410-752-0505 or visit marinalife.com. Periodical Postage paid at the Baltimore, MD, post office and at additional mailing offices. ISSN #2152-2200

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Marinalife, LLC, 921 E. Fort Avenue, Suite 225, Baltimore, MD 21230

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relaxation Chart a course for waypoint N24° 45’ 48’ W80° 54’ 40’ and refuel, reload and relax in an island paradise known for some of the best fishing and diving the world has to offer. Laid back luxury is a way of life at Hawks Cay Marina. Drop your anchor, tie up and indulge in the incomparable amenities and culinary excellence of our world-class resort while docked within reach of the only living coral reef in the continental U.S. Hawks Cay Marina features 85 boat slips, accommodation for vessels up to 110 feet in length, one spectacular resort, five pools, the Key’s only saltwater lagoon, award-winning restaurants and a full-service spa. Dive into

HAWKSCAY.COM | (888) 395-5539

DOCK. DINE. STAY. Play!

40-ACRES OF FUN

The largest deep-water marina in the Florida Keys, The Perry Hotel & Marina is more than just a marina — it’s a world-class destination. Featuring the award-winning Perry Hotel, two waterfront pools, three dockside restaurants, an entire village of experiences right at your fingertips, and 5-star service, we guarantee an unforgettable Key West getaway.

7005 SHRIMP ROAD | KEY WEST, FLORIDA 33040 PERRYKEYWEST.COM | 855.421.0551

CHECK OUT NEW SOFTWARE that connects boaters to marinas! marinalife.com/Manager

Dear Fellow Boaters:

My brother recently texted photos of himself grinning and holding a whopper coho salmon that he’d caught in Lake Erie. “Tasted better than the salmon I hooked in Alaska,” he bragged. I gagged as I remem-

shifts in industry but are now experienc- ing a revival, such as Penn’s Landing in Philadelphia or Detroit’s riverside rebirth. The already charming fishing village of

Camden, ME, has been energized by a boat-builder who had the vision and resources to add amenities and upgrades that are bringing the community back to the water. Perhaps the most daring of all was a boater who rejected rumors about Cartangena, Colombia, and discovered a vibrant metropolis that became a favorite cruising spot for her husband and young children. And in our special Chesapeake Bay section, we introduce you to waterfront seafood houses that are popping up in centuries-old, restored buildings. So, as we plan our summer itineraries, let’s get out of our comfort zones and explore hidden gems that might not make the top 10 lists — at least not yet. We wish you safe travels and happy boating,

bered childhood trips to Lake Erie, when our parents were so worried about its polluted waters that we were not allowed to eat the fish we landed or take a swim without getting tossed in a hot shower as soon as we were home. That Great Lake is totally different than when we were kids, my big bro insisted. Conservation efforts cleaned up the waters, and Erie has become a great boating and fishing destination. People change; places do, too. You gotta keep an open mind and dispel old myths. With those thoughts, the underlying theme for Marinalife’s 2022 summer issue emerged. This boating season was about rejecting preconceived notions and dismissing ideas that would prevent boaters from exploring delightful locations that were once considered off limits. Marinalife travel writers met the challenge by visiting waterfront towns that had been neglected or abandoned by

Joy McPeters, Marinalife Founder

Susan Elnicki Wade, Editor in Chief

TIE UP. WIND DOWN.

Only a block from the quintessential charm of downtown Nantucket, come ashore and embrace life on island time at Nantucket Boat Basin and our harborside cottages.

SUMMER ON NANTUCKET AWAITS

Reserve your slip today at nantucketboatbasin.com or call (844) 213-6500.

To extend your escape on land, visit thecottagesnantucket.com and book your stay at The Cottages at Nantucket Boat Basin.

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Marinalife magazine, published four times a year, is focused on the cruising lifestyle. The magazine includes articles on where to cruise, new marina destinations, upcoming events, boating stories and a directory of the many great discounts available to Cruising Club members.

PLAN YOUR TRIP AND

EDITOR IN CHIEF Susan Elnicki Wade [email protected]

FOUNDER & PUBLISHER EMERITUS Joy McPeters

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Alexa Zizzi

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Liyana Ido Claire Ruppert

CONTRIBUTORS Bob Arrington Carol Bareuther James R. Barnett Heather Burke Kate Carney Lisa Carruthers

Ellen Honey Richard Kern Kia Koropp Teri Miller April Winship

MAGAZINE PRODUCTION Mid-Atlantic Custom Media [email protected] Ebony Brown, Art Director Rachel Levitan, Designer Jay Sevidal, Designer

MARINALIFE SALES [email protected]

QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS [email protected]

MARINALIFE, LLC 921 E. Fort Avenue, Suite 225 Baltimore, MD 21230 Tel: 410-752-0505

Adventure starts with marinalife.com

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SUMMER 2022

WHAT’s new WITH

Marina Updates

Nantucket Boat Basin

SUMMER 2022 BY ALEXA ZIZZI

boater’s lounge and upscale amenities. Rent ski or pontoon boats and fish in the clean waters of Watauga Lake. Visit oasismarinas.com

Annapolis Group Protects the Chesapeake Bay Annapolis Green connects local businesses, government agencies and families with Maryland nonprofits and provides access to environmental education and opportunities. If you’re cruising along the Bay this summer, catch events such as the Waterbird Survey at Jug Bay Wetlands Sanctuary on the Patuxent River and Pollinator/ Preserve Wednesdays at Jug Bay’s newest property, Emory Waters Nature Preserve. Go to annapolisgreen.com

New Upgrades on the Island of Nantucket

Nantucket Boat Basin can’t wait to show visitors its recent renovations. The original 1968 steel bulkhead was replaced on Old South Wharf from the Cottages to the Anglers Club. New finger piers and pilings just got installed. The space between Slip 14 and the Cottages was also updated with new seating and planters. To top it off, the men’s bathroom and two private bathrooms were fully renovated. For details, go to nantucketboatbasin.com Kingman Yacht Center Hosts Summer Events & Cruises Plan your trip to Kingman Yacht Center in Cataumet, MA, this summer and catch family-friendly events. From craft nights and boat-in movies to themed parties and poker runs, this is the ultimate summer destination. July and August cruises include the KYC Kruise to Provincetown, KYC Kruise to Block Island and Newport, the New Bedford Harbor Dinner Cruise and Cuttyhunk Fireworks Cruise. For more info, visit kingmanyachtcenter.com/calendar Oasis Marinas Lands First Property in Tennessee The marina management company is proud to announce its newest property, Watauga Lakeshore Resort & Marina in Hampton, TN, the first Oasis location in the state. The full-service facility offers moorings, a fuel dock, marina store,

Watauga Lakeshore Resort & Marina

all skill levels. Enter by September 9, 2022. For details, visit marinalife.com/ 2022PhotoContest

The Best Marina Contest Is Back!

The highly anticipated

contest of the year is officially open for submis- sions. Vote for your favorite marinas of 2022 in two categories: Best Large Marina (over 100 slips) and Best Small Marina (under 200 slips). Submit your selections by October 1, 2022. Visit marinalife.com/ 2022BestMarinaContest 2022 Photo Contest Is Open for Submissions Send your best summertime shot to Marinalife’s third annual photo contest. We welcome snapshots that capture moments of maritime merriment from photographers of

Upcoming Boat Shows

Newport International Boat Show Newport, RI September 15-18 TrawlerFest Baltimore Baltimore, MD September 27-October 1 United States Powerboat Show Annapolis, MD October 6-9 United States Sailboat Show

Annapolis, MD October 13-17

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AS FAITHFULLY AS THE TIDES

Ocean Reef is more than a club, it’s family; a family that holds tradition, privacy and belonging at its core. That’s why generations of Members continue to connect and to enjoy the countless amenities all within this private club community.

OceanReefClubLiving.com

welcome

Hyannis Marina is your gateway to the beautiful clear waters of Cape Cod, Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard. With over 180 slips we accommodate everything from small

motorboats to deep draft sailboats and megayachts up to 200 feet in length. Slip into the heart of Cape Cod, then walk to nearby beaches, restaurants, town and much more. • 15’+ MLW approach & dockside depth • Exclusive harborside pool & cabana bar • 2 full menu restaurants onsite • Private showers & bathrooms • Courtesy & rental cars

• High speed fuel, volume discounts

• Municipal & Private Airport within 3 miles • Ships store • Parts Service Department • Dockside TV & WiFi • Close to town, beaches and shopping

www.hyannismarina.com 1 Willow St., Hyannis MA 508-790-4000 ext. 146

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SPONSORED CONTENT

LYMAN-MORSE Breathes New Energy into a Coastal New England Town BY SUSAN ELNICKI WADE

T he buzz of construction excitement among residents and visitors who watched a beautiful new development emerge along the waterfront. The rebirth of Camden’s harbor started in 2015 when Lyman-Morse bought Wayfarer Marine. Based in nearby Thomaston, Lyman-Morse has run a successful boat-building business since the 1970s. More than 120 vessels have been at the docks of Camden, ME, is finished, and it’s been replaced with an air of constructed in the yard, located in the same site where Malabar schooners, Friendship sloops and other fine vessels have been built for nearly two centuries. Lyman-Morse has expanded beyond custom sailing and motor yachts, now offering high-quality refits, and other services. Lyman-Morse’s boatyard and nine-acre facility enjoy a long maritime tradition on Camden’s shoreline, ranging

marine services and mixed-use commercial space. Lyman-Morse’s Camden boatyard attracts maritime professionals and boaters with essential services for carpentry, mechanics, electronics, rigging and more, and brings the general public back to the working waterfront with amenities such as restaurants, a distillery, a few overnight accommodations, and a boardwalk big enough for a morning stroll or brisk dog walk. Added bonus: Sensitivity to the environment was not overlooked in construction. Engineers took a sustainable approach when they elevated all structures above the flood plain, installed LED lights and upgraded all systems to today’s energy-efficient levels. To learn more about Lyman-Morse’s Camden Development or plan your visit, go to lymanmorse.com or contact the dockmasters at [email protected]

from building schooners in the 19th century to U.S. minesweepers and troop transports in World War II, and servicing vessels from high-end yachts to recreational boats. The location of this acquisition is idyllic. Nestled in a lovely cove on Penobscot Bay, Camden has been a bastion of seafaring activity and a world- wide nautical travel destination for centuries. The scenery is dramatic, with forested mountains that meet the ocean and offshore islands that are an explorer’s paradise. The 1830s Curtis Island Lighthouse near the harbor keeps watch over the town’s quaint homes, shops, restaurants, opera house and galleries. Inspired by the area’s natural beauty, the new development’s designers also understood Camden’s historic role in the region and wanted to carry that forward in modern form. They studied vintage photos, matched the style and created 33,000 square feet of new buildings for

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DESTINATION > JAMESTOWN, RI

Beavertail Light from the water

Jamestown Cafe

Jamestown Windmill

Visit the scenic and historic island of Jamestown, RI BY LISA CARRUTHERS

L ocated on Conanicut Island, Gould Island and Dutch Island, Jamestown welcomes boaters to Narragansett Bay. Its southernmost point is on Gould Island and marked by Beavertail Lighthouse and State Park. The northernmost point is marked by Conanicut Island Lighthouse. Conanicut Island is the second largest island on Narragansett Bay near the western mainland in Kingston, and Newport lies to the east on Aquidneck Island.

Hop on the Jamestown Newport Ferry to get the lay of the land and sea. Jamestown was settled early in colonial history and was named for James, Duke of York, who became King James II in 1685. By 1710, many of Jamestown’s current roads were already in place, and a lot of its early architecture is well preserved. Soak up some local history at the Jamestown Fire Memorial Museum, Beavertail Lighthouse Museum and Park, Jamestown Windmill, Watson Farm, Conanicut Island Sanctuary,

Fort Wetherill State Park, and the Jamestown Settlement museum. The main town, shops and restaurants are located on the eastern shore of Conanicut Island. But even from the western side, Dutch Harbor and other attractions are easily accessed with a one-mile walk. m l

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/JamestownRI

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WHERE TO DOCK

WHERE TO DINE

Conanicut Marina 401-423-5820

Slice of Heaven 401-423-9866

This full-service marina has a ships store/chandlery, gift shop, extensive dockage and a large mooring field. It’s located in the heart of town overlooking Newport and the Pell Bridge, so bring your fishing poles for the kids.

This family-owned café and bakery with an outdoor patio is an ideal spot for breakfast and lunch, especially if you’re looking for tasty gluten-free and vegetarian options.

J22 Tap & Table 401-423-3709

Dutch Harbor Boat Yard 401-423-0630

This lively, year-round restaurant specializes in classic American cuisine and local seafood dishes such as New England clam chowder, lobster tail and seared yellowfin tuna while accommo- dating meat eaters with wings, burgers and steak tacos.

Located on the west passage of Narragansett Bay, this small, local marina has good moorings, launch service and facilities. At times, the harbor can be rolly from a SW wind up the West Passage. The holding ground is excellent for anchoring, but the dinghy dock is by seasonal permit only.

Village Hearth Bakery & Café 401-423-9282

Take a seat inside this rustic eatery or outside on the patio to enjoy wood-fired bread, pizzas and pastries with a cool beer or wine. To start your day with a smile, order a cup of the eco-friendly coffee.

Safe Harbor Jamestown Boatyard 401-423-0600

Jamestown Boatyard is renowned for excellent workmanship on all types of boats. It also has a large mooring field and is in a beautiful location on the East Passage.

Bay Voyage Restaurant 401-560-7979

Inside the Wyndham Bay Voyage Inn, this casual dining establish- ment presents a seasonal menu of American cuisine standards and seafood with fresh ingredients and a stellar view of Narragansett Bay.

Beavertail State Park

Beavertail Lighthouse

Conanicut Friends Meetinghouse

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NEWPORT INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW SEPTEMBER 15–18,2022 Newport for new products Official U.S. Debuts of 2023 Boats & Boating Products

POWER & SAIL TOGETHER | KAYAKS TO CRUISERS | MARINE EQUIPMENT | SERVICES | ACCESSORIES

TICKETS AVAILABLE ONLINE | NEWPORTBOATSHOW.COM | CONCURRENT WITH THE NEWPORT BROKERAGE BOAT SHOW

NAUTI SHOPPER > BY ALEXA ZIZZI

Identify your new discoveries with these apps and guides I SEE IT. WHAT IS IT?

RESOURCEFUL APPS FISHVERIFY Available on Google Play, the Apple App Store and Galaxy Store This fish finder app lets anglers discover saltwater and freshwater catches with the snap of a picture. Take a live shot or import photos and the AI technology works its magic. Learn about marine habitats and check weather conditions including winds, tides, water temperature and barometric pressure. (Free download; premium subscription is $29.99/ year) fishverify.com SHELL MUSEUM: IDENTIFY SHELLS Available on Google Play and the Apple App Store Take photos of your shoreline discoveries and this innovative app helps you figure out what they are and the sea creature that built it. Thanks to the Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum in Sanibel, FL, beachcombers can now identify most common shells found across Florida beaches in seconds. ($1.99 download) shellmuseum.org ARGO: BOATING NAVIGATION Available on Google Play and the Apple App Store This navigation and social boating app offers satellite, terrain and NOAA map features, depth and contours, trip planning, voyage tracking and a captain’s log for itineraries. Find points of interest such as fuel docks, anchorages, marinas and restaurants. The social boating features helps you connect with the boating community. (Free download) argonav.io

FishVerify App

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SPECIES GUIDEBOOKS REEF FISH IDENTIFICATION — FLORIDA, CARIBBEAN, BAHAMAS By Paul Humann and Ned Deloach Whether you’re a southern angler or marine wildlife documenter, you’ll love combing through 1,000 photographs of more than 683 species in this book. Designed as a reference guide, this new 4th edition identifies fish and aquatic creatures throughout the waterways of Florida, the Caribbean and Bahamas. ($44.95) reef.org/products/reef-fish-identification- florida-caribbean-and-bahamas-4th-edition KAUFMAN FIELD GUIDE TO BIRDS OF NORTH AMERICA by Kenn Kaufman Kaufman Field Guides This guide has been a leading birdlife guidebook for decades. Vibrant photos, detailed descriptions and range maps illustrate a lively key for bird-watching excursions. The book is compact, easily portable and studies most species in North America. (Prices vary) kaufmanfieldguides.com/birds.html THE TRACKER’S HANDBOOK: HOW TO IDENTIFY AND TRAIL ANY ANIMAL By Len McDougall Whether you’re hunting for dinner, hiking or being an avid nature lover, this guide makes animal tracking easy. Discover North American species such as the American Elk and Whitetail Deer. Identify footprints, habitats and range. This book isn’t just for hunters; it’s for explorers of all kinds. ($34.56) barnesandnoble.com/w/the-trackers- handbook-len-mcdougall/1118940778

JUNIOR EXPLORER SKY GUIDE APP Available on Google Play and the Apple App Store

Point a smartphone to the sky and suddenly you appear in your own planetarium with this stargazing app. Sky Guide locates your position and follows the stars in real time while superimposing constellations and figures interactively. Find planets in rotation, discover where Pisces is currently rising or catch the

next meteor shower. ($1.99 download) apps.apple.com/us/app/sky-guide/ id576588894

OCEAN ANIMALS COLLECTION SERIES National Geographic Kids

Argo Navigation App

Children will become overnight marine biologists with this fun learning series. Young readers can spot sea otters, manatees, turtles and much more. Teach your kids about aquatic habitats with photography and unique fun facts on each species. ($17.99) barnesandnoble.com/w/ocean-animals- collection-national-geographic- kids/1123056379 OUTDOOR SCIENCE LAB SmartLab Toys This outdoor set brings out kids’ inner scientific explorer. Examining bugs, plants, dirt, weather and more. Activities include testing various samples and tracking findings in a science log. Kids can enjoy after-dark exploration with the UV night scope. ($45) shopsweetthreads.com/products/smartlab- toys-outdoor-science-lab-bugs-dirt-plants

Sky Guide App

Outdoor Science Lab

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MARINA SPOTLIGHT > BRIDGEPORT, CT

Steelpointe Harbor Marina PERCHED ON A PENINSULA in the heart of Bridgeport, Steelpointe Harbor sits along the tranquil shores of Long BY ALEXA ZIZZI

Walk right off your boat to enjoy a delicious dinner on-site at the award- winning BOCA Oyster Bar that serves fresh Atlantic and Pacific oysters and traditional New England cuisine. Experience outdoor waterside dining and live music throughout the season. “Enjoying a sunset dinner on the patio at BOCA while watching the ferry cruise in and out of the harbor is a must-do,” says Dockmaster Robert De Nigris. “We’re committed to providing you with everything you need from dockage, repairs and fuel to local restaurants, shopping and entertainment — so you will not be disappointed here.” Venture into town across the bridge for local provisions, retail, attractions and venues such as Hartford Healthcare Amphitheater and Total Mortgage Arena, home of the New York Islanders hockey team. For traditional Italian cuisine, check out Ralph-n-Rich’s famous “Sunday Sauce”

or Trattoria ‘A Vucchella’s wood oven pizza. Just a few miles from the marina, you can enjoy lovely parks and greenery such as the state’s largest zoo, Connecticut’s Beardsley Park Zoo, to the north and Seaside Park’s beaches to the south. Be sure to catch popular events and festivals such as the Steelpointe Yacht & Charter Show in June and the Sound on Sound Music Festival in September with headlining acts including Stevie Nicks, Dave Matthews Band, The Lumineers and Brandi Carlile. The marina plans to add more amenities such as airport and event shuttle service, as well as developing 420 units in a new residential area. Stay tuned for updates at bldsteelpointe.com m l

Island Sound. The 2.8 million square-foot waterfront development boasts a newly constructed harborwalk lined with dining, shopping, luxury residences, and a state-of-the-art marina and service facility. All types of vessels up to 300’ (includ- ing wide berths for catamarans) can dock at Steelpointe Harbor Marina while steering clear of bridge passes to Long Island Sound via a 35’ channel. Built in 2019, the new marina features top-of-the- line concrete floating docks in a protected harbor with deep channel access. The full-service marina offers 200+ slips, storage and haul-out. Amenities include complimentary Wi-Fi, 30, 50 and 100 amp electric, a fuel dock and boater’s lounge. Repairs, painting and refurbishing services are available at Bridgeport Boatworks located across the harbor.

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/ SteelpointeHarborMarina

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CRUISING ITINERARY > DETROIT TO PORT HURON

OUR ADVENTURES Detroit waterfront the Great Lakes from

M y husband Tim and I spent 2021 traveling 8,000 miles around the Great Loop. Like many, we wanted to cruise in Canada, but we didn’t get the green light for entry in time. We were initially bummed, but our mood quickly shifted as we discovered some of our favorite stops on the stretch that kept us in U.S. waters, including our journey between Lake Erie and Lake Huron.

BY KATE CARNEY

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BETWEEN Detroit to Port Huron

members, so it’s best to explore while keeping your boat at Milliken Marina. Roughly 1,000 acres, Belle Isle is home to an aquarium, maritime museum, botanical garden, beach, picnic areas and playgrounds that provide a plethora of options to explore. You won’t find great spots to grab a bite to eat, so we recommend stopping at Atwater Brewery on the way back to the marina.

Stop 1: Belle Isle Estimated Mileage: 2 NM

Belle Isle is the largest city-owned island park in America, located on the Detroit River between the United States and Canada. The island’s only marina is the Detroit Yacht Club, which has a limited number of transient slips for reciprocal

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locals say), popular for their clear water and hard bottoms. After an afternoon of swimming, cruise through the Clinton River and tie up at one of several restaurants catering to a lively boater scene for a drink and meal. Crews Inn is one of our favorites for their fun atmosphere and great food. Lake St. Clair Metropark Marina is a popular spot for transients. The marina is located in the park, so after docking, enjoy the expansive park’s beaches, trails, picnic areas and swimming pool.

Stop 2: Harrison Township, Lake St. Clair Estimated Mileage: 24 NM Often referred to as the Great Lake’s smaller cousin, Lake St. Clair is large enough to easily keep your distance from freighters yet small enough to explore in a day. By boat, you can visit several of the lake’s swimming spots in Anchor and Bouvier Bays (or “Munchies” Bay as the

Stop 3: Port Huron, MI Estimated Mileage: 44 NM

Port Huron is home to the start of one of the longest fresh-water races in the world called the Port Huron to Mackinac Sailing Race, and the port is a charming and boater-friendly destination. Ideal for its central location and friendly members, Port Huron Yacht Club is a great place for tying up, sipping a

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Port Huron

Author sampling Detroit-style pizza

Walk a mile along the Blue Water River Walk that runs along the St. Clair River. Be sure to leave enough time to watch the freighters go by and delve into the area’s history that is shared along the route. Continue a couple of miles farther to Lighthouse Park, where you can enjoy an afternoon at the beach and swim in Lake Huron’s crystal clear water. During a stroll downtown, check out the Knowlton’s Ice Museum of North America to discover the history of local ice harvesting that took place along the Great Lakes. When you’ve done enough activities to work up an appetite, Casey’s is the place for delicious breadsticks and pizza. For a

more upscale option, you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu at The Vintage Tavern. Maria’s Downtown Café offers a hearty breakfast, and Raven Café or Exquisite Corpse Coffee House are great options for a cup of coffee. Kate Carney is a writer and Great Gold Looper who traveled 8,000 miles on Sweet Day, a 31-foot Camano trawler. Learn more about her and her husband’s adventures on lifeonsweetday.com

Ford Model T

drink at the clubhouse and avoiding the drawbridges on the Black River. Another popular spot is about a mile farther down the river at the 95-slip River Street Marina. Port Huron is home to the Island Loop Route National Water Trail, a 10-mile loop through the Black River, Lake Huron and St. Clair River. Your dinghy is a must through the Black River and for exploring the town and clear waters by boat.

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/DetroitToPortHuron

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EXPERIENCE BOATING AS IT SHOULD BE, LONG-TERM OR TRANSIENT

AT GOLDEN ISLES (Pictured) 2020 Marina Dock Age Marina of the Year 206 Marina Drive, St Simons Island, GA VHF Channel 16 . (912)434-4214

AT LITTLE CREEK Brand New Wet Slips 8166 Shore Drive, Norfolk, VA VHF Channel 16 . (757)500-5684

AT MAYPORT Premier Fishing: 2 Miles From Ocean & ICW 4852 Ocean St, Jacksonville, FL VHF Channel 16/74 . (904)674-8551

MORNINGSTARMARINAS.COM

 ORANGE BEACH MARINA

Haven or Heaven Enjoy the experience.

Outstanding On Site Services and Local Attractions • Exceptional Marina Staff • Upscale Dock Store • 2 Restaurants On Site • Courtesy Cars & Ample Parking - Dockside & Upstairs ‡'RFNDJHWR· • Saunders Marine Center • Covered Grilling & Picnic Areas • 24 Hour Security • Laundry Center • 6 Bay Fuel Dock • Private Shower & Restrooms • Free Wi-Fi & Cable TV  MOBILE BIG GAME FISHING CLUB

2016 - Best Large Marina 1st Place 2017 - Best Large Marina 1st Place 2018 - Best Large Marina 2nd Place 2019 - Best Large Marina 1st Place

Relax. Every need is met at our beautifully secluded, secure location with coveredd and open slips availabale. Enjoy on site waterfront dining and shopping as your yacht gets all the attention it needs with on site service and repair. Located just minutes from the Gulf of Mexico at Perdidio Pass and the Intracoastal Waterway 27075 Marina Road • Orange Beach, AL • 251.981.4207 • OrangeBeachMarina.com

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Experience Remarkable

Our remarkable Lake Erie marinas are ready to serve you! Reserve your slip today!

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Visit northcoastharbormarina.com Call 216-485-2030

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1020 E. 9th Street Cleveland, OH 44114

301 Lakeside Ave #1 Lorain, OH 44052

Visit batteryparkmarina.com Call 419-625-6142

701 E. Water Street Sandusky, OH 44870

Find a Heavenly Hideaway

SECLUDED ATLANTIC BEACHES Some of the best summer getaways require only the bare essentials: a few towels, sunscreen, and a cooler of cold drinks and snacks. If venturing away from the crowds, unplugged and ready

to unwind, is what you’re dreaming about, Marinalife has found idyllic places for you. The following beaches will help you reconnect with nature and discover your happy place in the sun.

BY ELLEN HONEY

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on these

DAMARISCOVE ISLAND, ME As the first island to be inhabited by European fishermen in the 1600’s, Damariscove Island lies six miles from Boothbay Harbor. Because of nesting birds and a fragile ecosystem, the northern half of the 210-acre hourglass-shaped island is restricted. On the southern portion, trails wind along the water’s edge through coastal tundra. The freshwater pond, salt marsh and a cobble beach are perfect for picnicking. At the head of the harbor, a small museum showcases Damariscove’s rich history. A stone pier on the working waterfront welcomes local fishermen. Tie-ups are not permitted here, but the tiny, protected harbor has two courtesy moorings.

BOSTON HARBOR ISLANDS, MA Many of the three dozen islands spread over 50 square miles of the greater Boston Harbor basin were populated in the 1800s and later deserted during urban migration. Partial foundations and stone walls remain as relics of long-gone days.

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Each spot of land has its own appeal. Anchor off Great Brewster Island and trek to the top of 100 foot bluffs for a view of lighthouses across the harbor. The rugged New England coastline and tidal pools of Grape Island, and gorgeous wildflowers on Rainsford Island make brag-worthy photos. Four islands within the park offer moorings, but reserve a spot well in advance. Spectacle Island has a lifeguarded beach as well as breathtaking views from the top of North Drumlin. Graceful granite archways of Civil War era Fort Warren greet visitors to Georges Island. Peddocks Island is appealing for being off the beaten path. Once home to Native Americans, militiamen and prisoners of war, it was used for shooting scenes for the film Shutter Island. FIRE ISLAND, NY When cruising the Great South Bay, be sure to visit Fire Island, a thin slice of land off the south shore of Long Island. A home for diverse plants, animals and people for centuries, it has pristine beaches, ancient maritime forests, high dunes and frequent glimpses of wildlife. Activities on this car-free beach haven include hiking the 40-acre maritime Sunken Forest at Sailors Haven, climbing 182 steps to the top of the Fire Island Lighthouse and soaking up nature on Fire Island National Seashore. Take care not to disturb the piping plover, an endangered migratory shorebird that burrows its nests in the sand of the park beaches. Anchor offshore and wade in, or tie up to the floating dock at Talisman (Barrett Beach). Sailors Haven and Watch Hill Marina are in the park itself. ASSATEAGUE, MD The 37 miles of Assateague Island on the Atlantic coastline is part of a barrier island chain extending from Maine to Texas. Assateague Island National Seashore has inviting miles of sandy beaches, salt marshes, maritime forests and an inviting atmosphere, but the real draw is the wild ponies roaming free along the beaches. The animals are thought to be descendants of horses brought to several remote islands in the late 17th century by mainland owners trying to avoid fencing laws and taxation of livestock. Assateague’s horses are tough enough to survive the scorching heat, exuberant mosquitoes, temperamental weather and poor-quality food on this remote, windswept barrier island. They are truly wild and best admired from afar. SANDBRIDGE BEACH, VA Just a few minutes south of Virginia Beach’s festive three-mile boardwalk is secluded Sandbridge Beach. A spectacular hideaway of pristine sand dunes and dancing sea oats, it’s perfect for unwinding with nature. The beach sits near Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge, home to sea turtles and various bird species, and False Cape State Park. Both have protected areas but welcome kayakers, hikers and fishermen. MASONBORO ISLAND RESERVE, NC Just south of the vibrant coastal town of Wrightsville Beach, one of the great hidden gems of the southeast is Masonboro

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MASONBORO ISLAND RESERVE

Island, an essentially pristine barrier island and estuarine system. Masonboro Sound’s nutrient-rich waters are an important nursery area for fish including flounder, pompano, menhaden and bluefish. The beaches along the north and south sound side of the island are the best landing spots for boats. Trails lead cross- island to the beach where visitors can trek along miles of undisturbed ocean shoreline. Inland on the dunes, grassy flats, marsh grass and eelgrass beds, use care that the vegetation and the habitat of nesting loggerhead and green sea turtles are not disturbed. HAMMOCKS BEACH STATE PARK, NC Hammocks Beach State Park, known locally as Bear Island, is an untouched beach area accessible only by boat. Try visiting in the late spring or early fall to avoid sweltering heat and overzealous mosquitoes. The park rents kayaks, canoes, and paddle boards for exploring the Bear Island Water Trail or just meandering marshy waterways. There are no marked hiking paths, but wander through beautiful maritime forests, secret tide pools and endless mudflats. It’s a great place for shell hunters, bird Morris Island’s secluded 840 acres embody the unique ecosystem of the Lowcountry. Located at the mouth of Charleston Harbor and accessible only by boat, the island is actively protected by naturalists and historians, but is constantly under threat of development. Some deep drop offs in the channels between sandbars make for great shore fishing around the area. Weekend partiers prefer the northern end, while the southern part has hiking trails, peaceful beaches and prime views of the historic Morris Island Lighthouse. Morris Island has a violent history. In the 1700s, marauding pirates used it as a hideout. And some of the most heroic and consequential battles of the Civil War took place here. Of all the ghost tales told here, it’s been said that some are whispered by the ghosts themselves. CUMBERLAND ISLAND NATIONAL SEASHORE, GA watchers and dolphin lovers. MORRIS ISLAND, SC Georgia’s largest and southernmost barrier island is located six miles east of St. Marys. Primal maritime forests, wide marshes and unspoiled beaches hum with the tales of previous residents. Indigenous tribes, missionaries, slaves and affluent tycoons have all passed through here. Over 9,800 acres of Cumberland Island is designated wilderness. You’ll find more than 50 miles of trails for hiking and birdwatching, as well as 18 miles of beach for swimming and beachcombing. Rent a bike and pedal around the island with a stop at Dungeness Ruins, the remnants of steel magnate Thomas Carnegie’s mansion. The island is only accessible by boat. As the only commercial establishment on the island, Greyfield Inn offers access to 18 miles of beachfront and dockage to its guests.

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/SecludedBeaches

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DESTINATION > NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE, ONTARIO

Discover the Charm of Niagara-on-the-Lake BY RICHARD KERN

T ucked into the southwest corner of Lake Ontario, Niagara-on- the-Lake is often referred to as the most picturesque little town in Canada. Granted, it may not be as well known as nearby Niagara Falls, but what it lacks in popularity it more than makes up for in beauty and charm. NOTL, as the locals call it, has a long, distinguished history: first as the site of the indigenous village of Onghiara, then later as a settlement for British Loyalists after the American Revolution. In 1792, Newark, as it was then known, became the first capital of the new colony of Upper Canada, where the legislature met for five sessions until the capital was moved to York (later renamed Toronto). The thriving town was burned to the ground by Americans during the War of 1812, but locals refused to abandon the

strategic location, rebuilding and turning it into a bustling commercial center by the mid-1800s with a busy shipbuilding industry, shops, warehouses and stately brick mansions. NOTL’s historic charm is what keeps visitors coming back year after year to stroll the quaint streets, enjoy fine hotels and cozy B&Bs, dine in top-flight restaurants and travel back to a leisurely era. Historic stops include the Old Court House Theatre (1847); St. Vincent de Paul (Ontario’s oldest Catholic Church); St. Mark’s Church (Ontario’s second oldest Anglican Church); McFarland House (oldest building in town, now a museum and tea room); and Niagara Golf Club (oldest continuously operating golf course in North America). Another big draw is the world-famous Shaw Festival, featuring the works of

noted playwright George Bernard Shaw, his contemporaries and plays about the era when he lived (1856–1950). The festival is held every year from April to December, using four NOTL theaters (the Festival, Jackie Maxwell Studio, Royal George and Court House Theatre) and offering more than 750 performances each season. The region’s wineries are also worth a visit, with more than two dozen in the immediate area. The Strewn Winery, located west of Historic Old Town along Four Mile Creek, operates the Wine Country Cooking School, hosts hands-on classes between March and November, and teaches how to prepare recipes with local and seasonal ingredients. m l

To view this article online, visit marinalife.com/Niagara-on-the-Lake

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Shaw Cafe & Wine Bar

Prince of Wales Hotel

WHERE TO DINE Cannery Restaurant 905-468-2123

WHERE TO DOCK Niagara-on-the-Lake Sailing Club 905-468-3966 Located on the Niagara River, it’s steps from NOTL’s Historic Old Town. It offers 191 slips, a clubhouse and fuel dock, and has reciprocal arrangements with several New York and Canadian yacht clubs.

This romantic spot in the Pillar and Post Hotel uses local ingredients to elevate its menu of steaks, chops and seafood, pairing each dish with wines sourced from regional and international vineyards. Try the squash & Granny Smith apple soup or the New York Cajun striploin.

HobNob at the Charles 905-468-4588

Port Dalhousie Pier Marina 905-646-5515

Executive Chef Beil Wang showcases his culinary skills at the Charles Hotel’s signature eatery, emphasizing what he calls “laid back, yet exquisite indulgence” in dishes. The setting is a beautifully restored 1832 manor house that overlooks Niagara-on-the-Lake Golf Club.

Technically in St. Catharines, next door to NOTL, this marina has more than 400 slips equipped with 30-amp shore power and security gates, and accommodates boats up to 100 feet with up to a 14-foot draft. Fees include security, water, Wi-Fi and unlimited pump-out.

Noble 905-468-3246

St. Catharines Marina 905-935-5522

The Prince of Wales Hotel houses this French-inspired, fine-dining spot. Entrees like the hand-cut pappardelle pasta with pancetta, cream, chardonnay, parmesan, fried duck egg and black truffle salsa are what make it a four-diamond restaurant year after year.

Located near the entrance of the Welland Canal, this 40-year-old marina can host 185 boats up to 70 feet long with a draw of 5 feet. Facilities include fuel dock, full retail store, snack bar and boat repair services, as well as waterfront camping.

Olde Angel Inn 905-468-3411

Smuggler’s Cove Boat Club 905-468-3331

The Olde Angel Inn is one of the oldest pubs in Ontario, built in 1789 as the Harmonious Coach House. You can still see the exposed hand-hewn beams and thick plank floors laid down when it was rebuilt in 1815 after a fire. Expect to find hearty, English-style food and drink, and an ample serving of history.

Smuggler’s Cove Boat Club is located 1.5 km upstream from NOTL on the Niagara River. It has 60 slips, two mooring fields, club house, BBQ deck and fuel dock. SCBC has reciprocal agreements with many clubs along Lake Ontario on the Canadian and American sides.

Treadwell Cuisine 905-934-9797

Since 2006, Treadwell has focused on local, farm-to-table cuisine, showcasing the region’s top artisan producers. Enjoy inventive dishes such as chilled pea and mint soup and honey and roasted duck breast, along with an extensive list of local wines.

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YOUR MAINE MARINA For over 50 years, Chicks Marina has been the name synonymous with the Kennebunkport River

207-967-2782 | [email protected] 75 Ocean Avenue, Kennebunkport, ME 04046

CAPE COD CANAL VS. C&D CANAL FROM NEW ENGLAND TO THE CHESAPEAKE, WHICH HISTORIC WATERWAY WILL YOU CHOOSE TO EXPLORE?

THIS OR THAT >

BY ALEXA ZIZZI

CAPE COD CANAL

C & D CANAL

LOCATION

The Chesapeake & Delaware (C&D) Canal flows 14 miles connecting the Delaware River to the Chesapeake Bay and Port of Baltimore. Extending 450 feet wide, the waterway is one of the busiest industrial canals in America. Its construction created a 300-mile shortcut around the Delmarva Peninsula on the route between Wilmington or Philadelphia on the Delaware River and Baltimore on the Chesapeake Bay.

The 17.5 mile-long artificial waterway joins Cape Cod Bay in the northeast with Buzzards Bay in the southwest. The Sagamore, Bourne and Railroad Bridges span the canal allowing for 135 ft. clearance above mean high tide. Large vessels and cargo ships up to 825 ft. navigate a different route.

HISTORY

The original plan for the canal began in 1909, but it wasn’t until 1914 that it first opened as a private tollway. Soon after, it was expanded and the main bridges were built. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers took over operations with the Rivers and Harbors Act of 1935, creating the bustling industrial, commercial and toll-free canal it is today.

The birth of the C&D Canal began with settler Augustine Herman’s vision to connect Delaware and Maryland’s two bodies of water during the 17th century. What began as only 66 feet wide and 10 feet deep was largely expanded through the 1920s and 1930s. The canal’s five vehicle bridges and one railroad bridge are now operated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

BOATING ATTRACTIONS

Embark on sunset cruises, craft beer and wine tastings and sightseeing tours with Chesapeake City Water Tours. Transient dockage along or near the canal includes Summit North Marina and Bohemia Bay Yacht Harbor on the west end, Chesapeake Inn Restaurant & Marina, and Schaefers Canal House & Marina.

On each end of the canal, you can find transient marinas such as Taylor Point Marina to the west and Sandwich Marina to the east. Hy-Line Cruises offers the canal’s only historic sightseeing tour. Cape Cod Canal Cruises sails from Onset, MA, and tours the bridges, Massachusetts Maritime Academy, Scusset Beach State Reservation and sites along Cape Cod Bay.

ACTIVITIES AT THE CANAL

Linking the charming towns of Delaware City and Chesapeake City, the canal offers a tranquil escape with scenic nature preserves, cozy B&B’s, museums and bike trails along the canal. Visit Chesapeake City’s gardens, historic sites, and the C&D Canal Museum.

The Cape Cod Canal Bikeway runs along both sides and is easily accessible from Buzzards Bay Recreation Area on the mainland side or Tidal Flats Recreation Area along the cape. Near the middle of the canal, observe native wildlife at Herring Run Recreation Area and whales and dolphins in the canal. Check out summer events including the Falmouth Road Race in August and youth sailing programs at Onset Bay Center.

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SMART BOATER >

The Price of Fun Insider advice about avoiding pain at the pump

BY BOB ARRINGTON

W orld events over the last two years have created a record high interest in recreational boating, but unfortunately they also generated record high fuel prices. To help you understand exactly how various boats burn fuel differently and how to run your boat at its most efficient, we’re turning to Steve Zimmerman, founder of Zimmerman Marine, a highly respected boat yard and boat builder with six locations in the Mid-Atlantic and Southeast. Steve is knowledgeable in all aspects of boat maintenance and design that effect fuel consumption. I had the opportunity to ask Steve recently to dispel some commonly held misconceptions about fuel use in popular styles of recreational boats. BOB: When boaters talk about fuel consumption, they mostly speak in terms of gallons per hour, not miles per gallon. What’s the difference? STEVE: Many boaters focus on gallons per hour (GPH); however, in determining how much fuel you use to cover a distance on your boat, we have to bring speed into the equation. For example, if someone asked which is more efficient, a boat burning 11 GPH or a boat burning 22 GPH? The answer is it’s impossible to say without calculating miles per gallon (MPG).

If the boat burning 11 GPH is traveling at 10 knots (nautical miles per hour), we divide 11 GPH by 10 knots to see it is getting 0.9 nautical miles per gallon (nMPG). If the boat burning 22 GPH is traveling at 22 knots, 22 divided by 22 equals 1.0 nMPG. So, in this example, we see that although the difference is minor, the boat burning double the gallons per hour achieves better mileage. BOB: If people are considering a new boat, are some designs more fuel efficient than others? STEVE: All boat hulls require a certain amount of energy to move through water. The more easily they move through the water, the less energy is required. The primary factors that influence how easily the hull can be moved include hull shape, length, total weight and drag. Hull shapes are sorted into three basic categories: full displacement, semi-displacement and planing. To determine which offers the best fuel economy, we introduce the most important variable of all: speed. BOB: So, the faster a boat goes, the more fuel it burns? STEVE: Usually that’s true, but not always. Different hull forms respond differently to the demand for speed.

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