2013 Summer

2013 Summer

SYRACUSE AND ATLANTA RALLIES | RV Review: KZ DURANGO | TRAVEL TIPS | RESORT UPDATES

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CoastResorts.com

Summer 2013

TO Southern Utah’s backdoor gems

• Red Canyon • Cedar Breaks • Cascade Falls • Pink Ledges • Spectra Point • Birdseye Trail

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Indianapolis picks up the pace

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Great Summer Getaways Lake Shore Resort, Michigan Ghost Mountain Ranch, California Texoma Shores Resort, Oklahoma Pymatuning Adventure Resort, Ohio

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Contents travel 10  Beyond Bryce Canyon  Prepare to be dazzled by good sam and camping world chairman and Ceo Marcus Lemonis [email protected] coast to Coast president Bruce Hoster [email protected]

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Utah’s lesser-known gems, the blazing scarlet Cedar Breaks National Monument and Dixie National Forest’s Red Canyon. By emily fagan

Member Services 64 Inverness Drive E. Englewood, Colorado 80112 800-368-5721 [email protected] coast to coast WEBSITE CoastResorts.com Editorial director Valerie Law [email protected]

16  Fast Times in Indianapolis  If you think the famous speedway’s the only attraction worth your time in Indiana’s capital, take another lap around this Midwestern metropolis. By richard varr resorts 6 Ghost Mountain Ranch Pollock Pines, California 7 Texoma Shores Resort Madill, Oklahoma 8 Lake Shore Resort Davison, Michigan 22 Pymatuning Adventure Resort Williamsfield, Ohio departments 4 From the President 5 Member Matters 5 2013 Rallies 9 Resort Updates 20 RV Review 21 You’re the Experts

art director Nick nyffeler

Volume 32, Number 3. Coast to Coast (ISSN 1093-3581) is published quarterly for $14 per year as part of annual membership fees, by Coast to Coast Resorts, 64 Inverness Drive E., Englewood, Colorado 80112. Periodical postage paid at Englewood, Colorado, and additional mailing offices. Registration Number 558028. Publications Mail Agreement Number 40012332. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 875, Station A, Windsor, Ontario N92 6P2. U.S. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Coast to Coast Resorts, P.O. Box 7028, Englewood, CO 80155-7028. Coast to Coast Resorts assumes no responsibility for unsolic- ited manuscripts or artwork. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced by any method without prior written consent of the publisher. Copyright © 2013 by Coast to Coast Resorts. PRINTED IN THE USA. cover photo : Utah’s Red Canyon by Emily Fagan

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Flags Across America RVer of the Year Fred Moore honors veterans at the Rally

FROM THE President

U.S. flags on the graves of military veterans in 40 states. Flags4Vets is the only group approved by the Department of Defense’s National Cem- etery Administration to raise money for flags and place them on veterans’ graves in the United States and 10 other countries.

putting members first

Flags4Vets has recently announced a partnership with Coast to Coast’s parent company, Good Sam, in the Flags Across America program. Flags Across America has the ambitious goal of placing flags on veterans’ graves in all 50 states. However, because it often costs as much to ship grave flags as it does to buy them, Flags4Vets is asking RVers to help by transporting and placing flags in their communities and across the country. Flags Across America combines the mission of Flags- 4Vets with the wanderlust and generosity of the Good Sam organization and its RVing members, including Coast to Coast members, by enlisting RV owners from every state to take possession of a bundle of grave flags. RVers in return pledge to transport these flags to cemeteries in their com- munities for placement on veterans’ graves. “I care a great deal about all of our Marines, soldiers, sailors, airmen and guardsmen around the world,” says Moore. “And to this day, placing a flag on a veteran’s grave is a very emotional experience for me, but an experience that I am willing to share with others if they will join me.” It’s our hope that after reading this you’ll want to share in this experience by serving as a Flags Across America volunteer. To learn how you can help, email Fred Moore at [email protected]. To learn more about Flags4Vets or to make a donation, visit theusflag.com. If you’re planning to attend either the Syracuse Rally in June or the Atlanta Rally in October, we hope to see you at the Salute to Veterans. Be sure to stop by the veterans’ booth to visit with Fred and learn more about Flags4Vets and Flags Across America.

C oast to Coast has been the proud sponsor of the Salute to Veterans at the Camping World/Good Sam Rally for many years, and we’ll once again sponsor the event at this year’s Syracuse Rally, June 13 through 16, and Atlanta Rally, October 17 through 20. Our new Salute to Veterans partner is the Flags4Vets nonprofit organization and its founder, Fred Moore, the 2012 Good Sam RVer of the Year. Moore is a veteran himself, having served as a medi- cal corpsman with the First and Third Marine Divisions from 1968 to 1972. As preparation for serving overseas, Moore was first assigned to temporary duty on the burn ward at the Great Lakes Naval Hospital, tending to Ma- rines and soldiers returning from Vietnam with the worst kind of injuries.

Flags4Vets founder Fred Moore (right) leads the effort to place flags on military veterans’ graves at last fall’s Daytona Beach Rally.

Following his military service, Moore returned to or- dinary life, until by chance he passed by San Diego’s Fort Rosecrans National Cemetery on the day flags were being placed on thousands of veterans’ graves for Memorial Day. That day changed Moore’s life and led to the founding of the national Flags4Vets program, which so far has placed

Marcus lemonis Chairman and CEO

Bruce Hoster President Coast to Coast Resorts [email protected]

Good Sam and Camping World [email protected]

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mem ber matt ers Mak i ng t he mo s t o f y our c oa s t t o c oa s t memb e r sh i p

Bound for Syracuse and Atlanta Join us in New York and Georgia at two Camping World/Good Sam Rallies

T his year Coast to Coast reunites with Good Sam and Camping World at a pair of RV Rallies, June 13 through 16 at Syracuse’s New York State Fairgrounds and October 17 through 20 at Georgia’s Atlanta Motor Speedway. But that’s not the only reunion taking place at June’s Syracuse Rally. Wedding bells will ring as hundreds of Rally couples try to break the record for the world’s largest wedding-vow renewal ceremony. If more than 1,087 husbands and wives reaffirm their “I do’s,” the Rally will go down in matri- monial history. For Rally “newlyweds” and unmar- ried Rally-goers alike, the New York State Fairgrounds is the place to tour new and used recreational vehicles and meet representatives from the leading

RV manufacturers. RV and travel prod- uct displays will stretch as far as the eye can see with everything from steering stabilizers to safety lights. Daily seminars run the gamut from RV maintenance to microwave cooking, with expert speakers at the microphone, including Coast to Coast President Bruce Hoster promoting the benefits of membership camping. On the final day of the Syracuse Rally, Hoster joins Good Sam’s 2012 RVer of the Year Fred Moore at the Sa- lute to Veterans parade, sponsored by Coast to Coast. Afterward, shuttles will transport Rally-goers to an optional flag- placing ceremony at nearby Onondaga County Veterans Cemetery. The Syracuse Rally also travels to the world’s entertainment capital, as Wayne

Newton imports the sizzle of Las Vegas to the New York State Fairgrounds. The next night Reba McEntire hits the high notes as she returns to the Rally by pop- ular demand following an unforgettable Daytona Beach performance last year. If you can’t make it to central New York in time for the June Rally, steer a course to the Atlanta Motor Speedway for the year’s second Camping World/ Good Sam Rally in October, featuring country music superstar Vince Gill and classic Southern California surf band the Beach Boys. Camping World/Good Sam Rally TheRally.com 800-701-1399

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member matters

Get away from it all at Northern California’s gateway to the Sierra Range Ghost Mountain Ranch

“The plan is to bring Ghost Moun- tain up to the level of KQ Ranch,” says CRA’s Wayne Fosmark, referring to the company’s Coast Deluxe Resort in Southern California’s Cuyamaca Mountains. Until a few years ago, says Fosmark, KQ Ranch was an older RV park with aging facilities. Since CRA purchased it, the resort has been brought up to date and is once again a destination with enviable amenities. While some of the planned im- provements at Ghost Mountain Ranch are still in the early stages, the family- oriented resort still has plenty to recommend it. For starters, it’s ideally situated on 325 acres in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada near the historic gold mining town of Placerville and an hour’s drive from Lake Tahoe. After hooking up at one of the pine- shaded campsites, you’ll want to take the family fishing at the private pond

or hiking along miles of wooded trails. Shaped like a cowboy hat, the outdoor pool offers hours of fun in the sun, and the kiddie pool makes a big splash with the small fry. Planned activities keep the resort humming all summer long, so make sure to ask the friendly staff for a schedule. If you ever watched The Virginian TV show in the 1960s, you’ll recognize the resort’s main street. Paramount Pictures once owned this property, and the Western sets live on as part of Ghost Mountain Ranch. You can easily spend a few days exploring the surrounding gold coun- try and another day visiting the rural Apple Hill region for some good old- fashioned fun. A scenic drive travels past orchards of apples, pears and peaches where you can pick fruit, have a picnic and buy jam, jelly and pie. It’s a sweet way to see this historic area.

Resort Type: Coast Classic Location: Pollock Pines, California Season: Open year-round Website: coloradoriveradventures.com

W hen Colorado River Adventures “CRA” purchased Ghost Moun- tain Ranch last year, they did so with the mission of making it the Northern California jewel in their crown. Since then, the company has been hard at work remodeling the resort’s rental cabins, upgrading the pool, and paint- ing and trimming trees. Next, the aim is to refurbish the Western-themed clubhouse, bar, restaurant and gen- eral store.

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Texoma Shores Resort

Stay and play in one of the Southwest’s most popular vacation destinations

With a surface area of 74,686 acres and 580 miles of shoreline, this whale of a lake stretches for miles and spans two states, Oklahoma and Texas. Natu- ral minerals in the lakebed provide just the right conditions for striped bass to spawn, earning the region the title of Striper Capital of the World. Converted from a former fishing camp, Texoma Shores occupies one of the best spots for reeling in strip- ers and their largemouth, spotted and white brethren, as well as crappie and catfish. To take advantage of the lake’s piscatory bounty, the resort offers both a boat ramp and a fishing pier, and new boat slips are being built. Besides fishing, the region’s six mil- lion annual visitors take part in all sorts of watersports, from speedboating to sailing, waterskiing, windsurfing, skim- ming across the water on personal wa- tercraft and plain old swimming.

On the grounds at Texoma Shores Resort, RVers can spread out at the shaded campsites with full hookups. The 16-unit motel has been remodeled into seven comfortable rental suites, and four cottages offer lake views, with another four on the way. Last winter the resort opened the doors to a new clubhouse where pot- lucks, family games and poker nights are always on the schedule and the 55- inch TV often draws a crowd. A lodge, vending machines and washrooms with hot showers round out the facilities, and a new laundry room is under con- struction. Outdoors, you’ll find picnic areas, a pavilion, playgrounds, and bas- ketball and volleyball courts. Texoma Shores is one of eight Ocean Canyon Properties that have undergone recent renovations to ramp up the camping experience for home members and members of Coast to Coast.

Resort Type: Coast Premier Location: Madill, Oklahoma Season: Open year-round

peak Season: May 30–September 5 Website: texomashoresrvpark.com

W ith picturesque trees, a pan- oramic view and an abundance of birds and wildlife, Texoma Shores Resort is a place to leave your worries behind and get back to nature. But what really sets this Coast Premier Resort apart is its waterfront location on vast Lake Texoma, one of North America’s largest reservoirs and one of the most popular vacation destinations in the region.

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member matters

Dive into summer at one of five Outdoor Adventures destinations in Michigan Lake Shore Resort

the resort is an ideal place to have adventures in a beautiful natural setting. After lounging under an umbrella on the sandy beach and cooling off in the spring-fed lake, explore the water- way from aboard a pedal boat, aqua- cycle or kayak. Bring along a fishing pole, and you might even land a bass for dinner. Just up from the lake, you’ll find the family-friendly water park, complete with a splash pad, wading pool and lazy river, along with the more tradi- tional swimming pool and hot tub. Indoors, you can relax in the sauna and then dip into another heated pool and hot tub. The Dome is the place folks meet for entertainment and theme ac- tivities that run from Valentine’s Day through Halloween. Be sure to pack your cowboy hat for July’s Wild, Wild West Week and your pith helmet

for August’s Safari event. For more action, get a game of tennis, basketball, volleyball or shuffleboard going, try your luck on the miniature-golf course or work up a sweat in the fitness room. In addition to the nonstop action at the resort, the surrounding area has no shortage of attractions, from museums to cider mills to a neighboring nature preserve. Check in the resort office for day-trip ideas to suit your interests. For your convenience, there’s a snack bar and a well-stocked camp store at Lake Shore Resort, and the clubhouse has a game room and a movie theater, as well as an adult lounge. The resort also offers coin-operated laundry facili- ties and a picnic area with grills. Coast to Coast members who don’t arrive in an RV are welcome to rent from among the cabins, cottages and other on- site lodgings. Call the resort directly to reserve rental accommodations.

Resort Type: Coast Premier Location: Davison, Michigan Season: Open year-round Website: outdooradventuresinc.com Good Sam rating: 8.5/7.5 H /8.5

F ew destinations in the Coast to Coast network rival the amenities of Lake Shore Resort, one of five Outdoor Adventures properties in the Wolver- ine State. Located in the Flint suburbs, a little over an hour north of Detroit, the Coast Premier Resort is the most southerly of the five locations. True to its name, Lake Shore Resort sits on the banks of Lake Linda. And true to the name of its parent company,

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resort updates additions and changes to the 2013 directories The 2013 Coast to Coast Resort Directory and the Good Neighbor Park Directory are packed with everything you need to navigate the network of Coast to Coast Resorts, Good Sam Parks and Good Neighbor Parks. To keep members up-to-date, each issue of the magazine includes resort updates, noted with page numbers from the respective directories for easy reference. Paradise Cove Resort–Advance Resorts of America, 32455 High- way 101 N., Rockaway Beach, 97136. Phone: 503-368-6581. Reser- vations: 360-466-4468. Website: araresorts.com. Directions: 1 mile south of Wheeler on Highway 101. GPS: 45.6884/-123.9227. Additional charges: 8% lodging tax. Open year-round. COAST DELUXE addition alberta Half Moon Lake Resort, 21524 Township Road 520, Sherwood Park, T8E 1E5. Phone: 780-922-3045. Reservations: 780-922-3646. Website: halfmoonlakeresort.ca. Directions: From Edmonton, go east on Sherwood Park Freeway and Wye Road. When you’re 1.9 miles east of Sherwood Park, go south on Highway 21 for 5.9 miles, then east on Township Road 520 for 6.5 miles to the local road accessing the south entrance. GPS: 53.4537864/-113.081074. Open May 15–October 15. COAST DELUXE change ohio Lakewood Village Resort, Wapakoneta. Email: lakewoodvillage@ rocketmail.com (page 67). Coast to coast resorts COAST Premier addition oregon

Oregon’s Paradise Cove Resort.

COAST DELUXE deletion nebraska Wood’s Landing, Yutan (page 156). COAST classic changes manitoba Traveller’s RV Resort, Winnipeg. Fax: 204-253-9313 (page 208). utah Antelope Valley RV Park, Delta. Phone: 435-864-1813. Email: [email protected] (page 185).

good neighbor parks GOOD NEIGHBOR DELETION new york Forest Lake Campground, Windsor (page 32).

What Did You Think of Our 2013 resort Directory? Take our online survey and tell us your thoughts In the previous issue, we asked for member feedback on the changes we made in the 2013 Coast to Coast Resort Directory. We received some good input, but we wanted to be sure we gave all of our members a chance to respond before finalizing plans for the content and organization of our 2014 Directory. In May we sent a survey to all of our members for whom we had an email address. If you didn’t get a chance to take the survey, you still have time to give us your feedback. Simply visit the Coast to Coast website, CoastResorts.com, and follow the link from the home page to the survey. We’ll report the survey results in the Fall issue of the magazine, and, of course, you’ll receive the next Resort Directory in January 2014. We need your feedback, so if you haven’t yet taken the survey, please do so soon!

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Red Canyon’s crimson rocks and the scarlet cliffs of Cedar Breaks National Monument surpass their more celebrated neighbors in the eyes of some Utah visitors

Story and Photography by Emily Fagan

Like all tourists, we were dazzled when we first saw the great national parks of southern Utah and northern Arizona. My husband, Mark, and I followed the well-trodden path between the Grand Canyon’s North Rim, Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon National Park on a brief summer tour with our tent years ago. As expected, we were awestruck by these crown jewels of America.

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But what caught us by surprise were the many sensational sights in between these great parks. The whole area is filled with exotic rock formations, inspiring vis- tas and intriguing small towns. We knew we had to come back. When we finally re- turned with our RV recently, we felt like explorers uncovering rare treasures: the hidden gems between the famous parks. Our first stop was Cedar Breaks Na- tional Monument where we headed out on the alluringly named Spectra Point Trail. Passing gorgeous blooming wild- flowers—lavender and white columbines, blue lupines and red Indian paintbrush— we followed a short path through the woods and emerged onto a breathtaking plateau. Spread before us was a sweeping landscape of pink, orange, red and white sandstone turrets. This amphitheater of geological won- der, a 10,000-foot-high feast of fairytale red-rock vistas, rivals anything at the better-known national parks. But here it was accompanied by a fun sense of surprise and discovery. “Did you know this was here?” we asked other tourists on the trail. “No!” They responded. “I’d

never heard of it before I got here.” We followed the trail along the very edge of the canyon, winding along the rim until we were deposited on a distant point that jutted out into the amphitheater like a mammoth jetty in a wide bay of orange waves. Here at the very end of this bald, stark point, we came face to face with an ancient 1,600-year-old bristlecone pine tree. These timeworn trees thrive in bar- ren, exposed and windswept places. They sustain life by protecting a thin core of live tissue deep within the crusty dead- wood of their exterior. A few green bristles and pinecones This amphitheater of geological wonder, a 10,000-foot-high feast of fairytale red-rock vistas,

were growing as thinly on this tree’s branches as the wispy white hair on the head of an octogenarian, offering gritty proof of its inner vitality. Despite its age, its wizened form was as full of character and life as the brilliant, delicate, one- season wildflowers we had left waving gently in the breeze at the start of the trail. Cedar Breaks is known as much for its monthlong midsummer display of riotously colored wildflowers as it is for its red-rock spires. Hiking the Alpine Pond Nature Trail, we were led away from the boundless canyon views down into a thick green forest glade where we found ourselves knee-deep in a blanket of wildflowers, listening to a symphony of bees humming their song of pollina- tion. A small pond mirrored the tall trees in its depths. Now and then we caught a glimpse of the wide expanse of sculpted orange rocks between the trees, but this trail was more about the close-up views of vibrant flow- ers than the distant views of panoramic landscapes. A chipmunk watched us with big eyes while he nibbled on a patch of blue lupines.

rivals anything at the better-known national parks.

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C edar Breaks is just one of many dramatic canyons in southern Utah, but the geological marvels of this area extend well below the surface, in the form of lava tube caves. The words “Mammoth Cave” on our map piqued our curiosity, and after some twists and turns down dirt roads, we found it. At first we were disappointed that it appeared to be just a big hole in the ground, but clambering down a few boulders, we located the entrance. Bats rely on this cave for their winter hibernation, so the entrance has been gated to enable it to be locked off to visitors during the winter. In summer, however, visitors are welcome, and all it takes to cross into the netherworld is a limbo-style scramble through a dog-door-size open gate.

didn’t expect much, given his indiffer- ence, but in this part of Utah, often called Color Country, places that would be national parks in other states are simply nice spots to the locals. Venturing out on the well-groomed trail of Cascade Falls, we soon found our- selves on a canyon rim, much like Cedar Breaks. Suspended halfway up the red- rock cliff walls, our path took us along the weaving contour of the rock face. Ponderosa pines punctuated the brilliant orange sandstone views. In places where the trail could

have had a tricky climb or descent, we found solid staircases. From toddlers to great-grandparents, folks of all types were on the trail on this Sunday afternoon, and the grins on their faces said it all. A four-year-old walking alongside me for a while kept saying, “Wow, this is beautiful.” When I met him again at the loud, crashing water- fall’s edge, he said, “Look at this!” and

Once inside, we stood up in a large grotto, the air cool and slightly damp on our skin. Turn- ing a corner, we instantly found ourselves in inky darkness. Mark flipped on a flashlight and handed another one to

me. Suddenly the walls were awash with color, and we found our way along the pebbly path to the end of the pitch-black cavern, a quarter mile from the entrance. B a c k a b o v e

ground at the visitor center in Duck Creek Village, we asked a forest ranger to recommend an easy hike. He casually sug- gested the Cascade Falls Trail. “There’s a view and a waterfall,” he told us, shrug- ging his shoulders noncommittally. We

Built in the 1920s and painted in rusty tones by millennia of oxidizing iron, the Red Canyon Tunnel continues to dazzle.

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pointed at the foaming water with glee. A small group of us hung over the rail and thrust our faces toward the misty spray from the falls. We shared a sense of discovery, of finding a stunning place well off the beaten path. There are no coffee-table books or tourist guides dedi- cated to Cascade Falls, although there could be. On our way back to our campsite, we stopped at another lava tube cave, the Ice Cave. Much like Mammoth Cave, it appeared to be just a large, unexpected hole in the ground. However, this cave is unique because, even at the end of August, it contained remnants of last year’s snowpack. The snow was dirty, and the pile wasn’t thick any longer, but it was ice cold just the same. We were loving this rich outdoor playground, but we were ready for a taste of civilization, and the small town of Panguitch delivered. Pan- guitch was settled by stouthearted Mormons in 1864, and the entire

community is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The library has a brochure for a self- guided walking tour that takes in many of the delightful brick homes and community buildings. The story behind Quilt Walk Park caught our imaginations. During the tiny Panguitch settlement’s first winter 150 years ago, the settlers ran out of food. On the verge of starvation, the community sent seven men on a 40-mile trek over snow-covered mountain peaks to neigh- boring Parowan for help. Making no progress in the deep snow, the men were nearing their wits’ end when they threw out a quilt and gathered on it to pray together. Suddenly they noticed that the quilt kept them from sinking into the snow, and instantly they took out all their quilts and began tossing them ahead and walking across them. They did this all the way to Parowan and all the way back, lugging much needed sacks of flour with them on their return trip.

On another day we visited nearby Tropic, home of pioneer Ebenezer Bryce, the namesake of Bryce Canyon. The door to his tiny log cabin stood ajar, and a brief look inside the 9-foot-by-9- foot room convinced us that those early settlers were made of very tough stock. It is hard to imagine spending a snow- bound winter in that wee cabin, its short walls your only shelter. I f the Mormons of those days could see past the rugged, treacherous, life- threatening nature of the terrain, they must have been astounded by the beauty of the land they found in Utah. Today, tourists from all over the world hustle down the highway toward the wonders of Bryce Canyon National Park, and most make a swerving, sudden stop when they get to the phenomenal warm- up act of Red Canyon on the way there. A red-rock-pinnacle gate welcomes visitors, and for several miles the can- yon’s red walls rise high on either side

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as the road winds in between. Most first-timers stop just long enough to grab a photo or two in a scenic viewpoint pullout, because Bryce beckons them to hurry on to the road’s end. But we found Red Canyon to be a fantastic destination in itself. Most of the gorgeous, easy and short hikes originate at the visitor center, and they weave and intersect with each other among the red-rock castle walls out back. Following Pink Ledges trail, we zigzagged for a while up a modest incline until it brought us into the deepest, reddest part of the canyon. The rich green pine trees stood in brilliant contrast to the dark, burnt orange hues of the rock walls, and in the distance a summer thunderstorm began to form. It was sheer magic as the sky darkened and the last rays of sun lit the red spires for a moment before the storm clouds blackened the sky and the deluge began. Tourists from all over the world hustle down the highway toward the wonders of Bryce Canyon, and many make a swerving, sudden stop when they get to the phenomenal warm-up act of Red Canyon.

A pair of hoodoos stands sentinel in the middle of the canyon. Beyond their craggy faces, the narrow Pink Ledges Trail meets the wide, comfortable gravel path of Photo Trail, a route that every- one can negotiate easily. Taking a turn onto Birdseye Trail, we found ourselves climbing high along the canyon’s back walls looking down into Red Canyon and across the valley beyond. On the other side of the road, the Tunnel Trail led us to soaring heights once again, giving us views of the two unique red-rock bridges that arch across the highway. From this vantage point, we could see cars, big RVs and commer- cial trucks scooting under the red rock bridges on their way to Bryce Canyon. Besides all the half-mile to 2-mile hikes, Red Canyon boasts a nearly 9-mile-long paved bike and walking path that runs parallel to the main highway before it heads out on a curvaceous jour- ney through the canyon. Kids, old folks, serious-looking cyclists and walkers all enjoy this lovely path, although the traffic is so light that we saw only a few people each time we took our bikes out for a ride. For us, the flamboyant scenery and infinite variety of southern Utah’s many sights tug at our souls and beg us to return. The area’s national parks get all

the headlines, and they lured us on our first trip. But it is the precious, unsung and multifaceted hidden jewels lying in between those parks that make this place worthy of many repeat visits. For More Information Cedar Breaks National Monument nps.gov/cebr Dixie National Forest fs.usda.gov/dixie Utah has four Coast Classic Resorts, two Coast Premier Resorts, one Good Neighbor Park and 37 Good Sam Parks. Find out more about these destinations at the author, Emily Fagan’s website, roadslesstraveled.us.

Better than Bryce? The rocky pinnacles and vermilion views of Red Canyon and Cedar Breaks are no less breathtaking than those of their national park neighbor.

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There’s more to America’s racing capital than the celebrated speedway By Richard Varr

The engine purrs loudly as I brace for the turn. I know I’m snuggly belted in, but my instinct is to hold on—to what, I’m not sure—as the pace car zips along the sharp corner at one end of the colossal Indianapolis Motor Speedway. I feel an enormous g-force that quickly abates once back on the straightaway. I’m relieved it’s over, but at the same time thrilled I’ll again feel the scary exhilaration on the next curve.

Need for speed: Outside the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Hall of Fame and, top, the century-old racetrack itself.

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“As the driver, you have the wheel to hang on to, so it’s not as noticeable,” says racecar driver Sarah Fisher. “But from a passenger standpoint, you’re certainly thankful to have bucket seats to brace yourself in.” My breathless moments were just a taste of what it’s like to race in the Indianapolis 500, the world’s largest single-day sporting event. The pace car, which sets the speed before the green flag

children’s museum, the city also show- cases world-class culture and attractions, all draped within a burgeoning skyline next to the grassy 250-acre White River State Park, home to the city’s zoo, a Minor League Baseball stadium and a string of impressive museums. In addition, the nation’s 12th largest city recently underwent a major facelift as it welcomed Super Bowl XLVI in 2012. More than $3 billion in development

Second only to Washington, D.C., in the number of war memorials, India- napolis celebrates its historic legacy with the Indiana Soldiers and Sailors Monu- ment and the columned Indiana War Memorial. Made of local limestone, the Soldiers and Sailors Monument was built as a tribute to Civil War soldiers and has come to symbolize both the city and state. Adorned with statues and flanked by fountains, it stands just 15 feet shorter

The Cultural Trail conveys pedestrians and cyclists to the city’s hot spots.

Flanked by public art, the trail connects six of

than the Statue of Liberty. “One side represents war, and the other side peace, with cannons and soldiers fighting, and people coming home to their families on the other side,” explains monument guide Kyle Trueblood. A Civil War museum sits at the monument’s base, while 330 heart-pumping steps lead up to a glass- enclosed observation deck, also reached by an elevator. A few blocks north, the War Memorial houses a chronological museum of U.S. conflicts from the Revolutionary War through Iraq and Afghanistan. A colossal stars and stripes hangs in the 110-foot- the city’s cultural districts and leads to many of the most-visited attractions.

With 100 acres of woodlands, wetlands, gardens and grounds, Indianapolis’ Virginia B. Fairbanks Art and Nature Park is one of the country’s foremost comtemporary sculpture parks.

drops, sped along at 130 miles per hour. Sleek, ground-hugging racecars, on the other hand, thunder down the track at nearly twice that speed, averaging 220 miles per hour. “At g-forces over three times your body weight,” says Fisher, “it’s like the initial takeoff of a regional jet—only sideways.” To many, the Indianapolis Motor Speedway and the Indy 500 are the iconic signatures of this Midwestern metropolis. But with Rembrandt and Renoir paintings in the Indianapolis Museum of Art and the world’s largest

included Lucas Oil Stadium, home of the Indianapolis Colts; the shining blue-glass JW Marriott, the nation’s largest; and a $275 million expansion of the Indiana Convention Center. The city likewise planted more than 2,000 trees, beautifying the Indianapo- lis Cultural Trail, an 8-mile biking and pedestrian path along downtown’s Cen- tral Canal dotted with pedal boats, kay- aks and Venetian-style gondolas. Flanked by public art, the urban trail connects six of the city’s cultural districts and leads to many of the most-visited attractions.

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high Shrine Room, where neon-blue ceiling lights and blue stained-glass windows set a solemn mood. From the War Memorial, I head over to Delaware Street to the Benjamin Harrison Presidential Site, the 1875

robber and native son John Dillinger. The outlaw’s footsteps can be traced through a popular Indianapolis eatery and blues club, the Slippery Noodle Inn. Two bullets, from a .38 special and a .45 caliber, are lodged in an inside brick wall

Indians and Western Art showcases paintings and Indian treasures that include 3,000-year-old stone arrowheads, full-scale tepees and the centerpiece tri-painting panorama of the Grand Canyon. Next door, the Indiana State Mu-

At a whopping 472,900 square feet, the Indianapolis Children’s Museum is the largest museum of its kind in the world, with more than 120,000 artifacts, a five-level playgroud, a five-story glass sculpture by renowned artist Dale Chihuly and a family of dinosaurs busting out of the building.

Italianate Victorian house of the 23rd U.S. president. The 16-room home’s original furnishings include a desk Harrison used in the White House and his deathbed where he succumbed to pneumonia in 1901. On the walls are portraits of family members including Harrison’s grandfather, William Henry Harrison, the ninth president. “Of people who have traveled to presidential homes, many know nothing about Benjamin Harrison,” says volun- teer Marie Cameron, noting the one-term president served from 1889 to 1893. “He was a general and soldier, but foremost a lawyer, family man, patriot and a very religious man.” A more notorious but popular slice of the city’s history involves bank

and thought to be from either the Dillinger or Brady gangs who used it for target prac- tice during Prohibition. “They were just hanging out here because it was a place where no one would really be looking for you,” says business owner Hal Yeagy. Fatally shot by federal agents in Chicago, Dillinger was buried in a family plot at Indianapolis’ Crown Hill Cemetery in 1934. “The family had a procession here on a very hot day in July, and thousands supposedly followed them,” according to tour guide Tom Davis. Other favorite sons interred here include pharmaceutical company founder Eli Lilly and Benjamin Harrison. Two key museums sit along the Cultural Trail in White River State Park. The Eiteljorg Museum of American

seum traces the state’s natural and human history, from mastodons roaming the plains 11,000 years ago to early pioneers, Indian wars and industrialization. Walking into the museum’s atrium, I can’t help but notice the facade of the Oscar C. McCulloch School Number 5, once a public school. “During the devel- opment of White River State Park, the school was being demolished, and some- one got an injunction in the middle of the night and saved it,” says Kathi Moore, the museum’s communications director. “They decided to incorporate it into the architecture of the building.” Approaching the Children’s Museum of Indianapolis, I can’t miss the 50-foot- high brachiosaur replica standing on its hind legs and poking its long neck

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through the top window. The world’s largest museum for kids houses artifacts ranging from 3,000-year-old hiero- glyphic-filled Egyptian slabs in a replica tomb of Pharaoh Seti I to a cannon from Captain Kidd’s abandoned ship, the Cara

smiles down on Indianapolis from a three- or four-story mural, one of 46 painted on building walls and along the Central Canal as part of the city’s efforts to welcome the Super Bowl of the same number.

its 192-foot needle-like spire. Heading west on State Route 46, I skirt Brown County State Park and Yellowwood State Forest on my way to Bloomington, home of Indiana University. On campus, I stroll along heavily shaded

Still a thrill: Indy pace cars lap the track at a mere 130 miles per hour.

pathways until I get to a popular gazebo. “You’re not a true undergrad unless you’ve kissed someone at the stroke of midnight inside the gazebo,” former student Ryan Irvin tells me. Nearby Fourth Street, known locally as Restaurant Row, unwinds a string of international restaurants ranging from Ethiopian and Moroccan to Vietnamese and Tibetan cuisine. With Tibet in mind, I drive 7 miles along farmland and meadows to Indiana’s Tibetan Mongolian Buddhist Cultural Center. With eight buildings on 108 acres, the center includes a pagoda, two oval-like Buddhist stupas and a narrow building with Tibetan prayer wheels. The Dalai Lama has visited here, and its mission is to preserve and protect Tibetan and Mongo- lian religion, culture and heritage. The highlight of my visit is a medita- tion session led by Arjia Rinpoche, the center’s spiritual leader and monk. We listen to chanting, and in a lotus position meditate in abject silence. “Don’t think anything, don’t do anything, just control your mind,” advises Rinpoche. “Media- tion helps balance us.”

Indianapolis’ largest Fourth of July fireworks display sparkles from the top of a downtown bank tower, as viewed from the Central Canal in White River State Park.

Merchant , shipwrecked in 1699. The Power of Children exhibit helps kids learn about the struggles of youthful Holocaust victim Anne Frank, teenage AIDS casualty Ryan White and Ruby Bridges, one of the first children to attend a desegregated school in the 1960s. The Kurt Vonnegut Memorial Library displays the 1970s Smith-Corona typewriter of the famous author and native son. “To the best of my knowledge, it’s the typewriter on which he wrote Breakfast of Champions , Slapstick and Jailbird ,” says curator Chris Lafave. Also on exhibit are Vonnegut’s spectacles and an unopened World War II letter returned to his father while Vonnegut was missing in action. Not far from the library, Vonnegut

Upon leaving Indianapolis, I head south on I-65 to Columbus, ranked sixth among U.S. cities in architectural design and innovation by the American Institute of Architects, behind only New York, Washington and San Francisco. “People don’t expect to see the art, architecture and quality of life we have here in a town of 40,000,” says Susan Whittaker of the Columbus Area Visitors Center. I walk by the 1874 Bartholomew County Courthouse with its green mansard roofs and clock tower. On the grounds stands the Veterans Memorial with its symmetrical rows of white stone pillars, inscribed with letters to loved ones from soldiers who would never come home. Another prominent struc- ture is the North Christian Church with

For More Information Visit Indy visitindy.com

Indiana has two Coast Classic Resorts, three Good Neighbor Parks and 20 Good Sam Parks.

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rv review

You don’t need more than a half-ton truck to tow this well-furnished fifth wheel KZ Durango

K Z Recreational Vehicles is now in its fifth decade in business. That’s a significant accomplishment, consider- ing the ups and downs of the RV industry. To prosper, man- ufacturers need to listen to their customers and build the kind of RVs they want. KZ has done just that, particularly with its crowd-pleasing lineup of Durango fifth wheels. I tested the 34-foot Durango D326CS. It’s part of the 1500 series, which simply means these fifth wheels can be towed by half-ton pickups. KZ has adopted the labels 1500 and 2500 to identify which of its fifth wheels can be towed by half-ton and three-quarter-ton trucks. Interestingly, the main difference between similar length 1500 and 2500 Durango fifth wheels is the height. Inside, KZ has done a fine job of maximizing the space in both versions, so that’s not a key consideration, but the height does play a big role in terms of basement storage. We all have “stuff,” and the longer you plan to be on the road, the more stuff you need. The basement storage on my tester was a pass-through design, but it was fairly narrow. For snowbirds and full-timers, the 2500 models may be the better choice. Of course, that also means owning a larger, more

expensive truck to haul the additional weight. Entering the D326CS was a squeeze until the two large slide-outs were extended to open up the living room. With its L-shaped hide-a-bed couch and opposing twin recliner lounge chairs, this room is an inviting place to sit and visit with friends. Attractive hardwood crown molding draws the eye up, giving the impression that the trailer has more interior height than it actually does. Another interesting feature is the pair of tall windows that frame the entertainment center and fireplace on the rear wall. Typically, the entire wall would be taken up with cabinetry, but in this case the two windows really brighten up the space. Even the kitchen is oriented toward this common area, with the L-shaped counter back-to-back with the couch. Twin sinks come topped with covers, plus there’s a three-burner stove, an oven, and above them a microwave and vent hood. Taking up the other half of one slide-out, the dinette sits across from the kitchen, with a hardwood table and four free- standing chairs. Full-size windows make this a pleasant spot to eat or just sit and sip a cup of coffee. Right across from the entrance door is a counter with

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you’re the experts

cupboards above and below it. The top cupboard houses the slide controls and levels gauges, nicely out of sight, while that countertop is ideal for dropping all the stuff you have in your hands as you enter the RV. In a pinch it can add kitchen counter space by accommodating the coffeemaker and toaster, still within easy reach. The amount of counter space in the Durango is already on the high side, so this is a true bonus. A third slide-out expands the front bedroom, moving a wardrobe and linen closet out to add space around the queen- size bed. Clothes storage is ample here, but the lower height of the 1500 series affects headroom. At 6 feet, I just cleared the ceiling near the head of the bed. If you played basketball in high school, you might have a problem. The bathroom shows off the designers’ ability to follow the trends with a large shower, offset toilet position and two doors. That third slide-out continues in the bathroom, so the linen closet is accessible with the bathroom doors closed, a handy feature. The Durango D326CS has a few nice lighting fixtures but relies mostly on flush-mounted 12-volt lights. Air-conditioning diffusers on the ceiling are plentiful, and heat is routed through a single underfloor vent with floor registers in the living room, kitchen, bath and bedroom. Outside storage doors have slam-shut fasteners, and the main door provides access to all the service hookups, which saves space and a door, a smart feature. Not as smart is the placement of the landing-gear control. It’s on the outside of the trailer body, right up front where road grime from the truck’s rear wheels hit it. I towed my test Durango with a new Ram 3500 dually. The diesel-powered pickup was certainly overkill for this trailer, and by virtue of the large truck’s abilities, the rig towed wonderfully. However, KZ built this fifth wheel specifically to maximize the current crop of half-tons. Not having the chance to test this model with a smaller truck, I can’t comment on that except to say that the weights as shown are within the published limits of the major truck manufacturers. With the Durango D326CS, KZ has put together a smartly appointed fifth-wheel while keeping an eye on weight, and that’s a good thing for owners of half-ton trucks.— Howard J. Elmer

Inside information from Coast to Coast members

lighting the way We often camp in areas where the ground is hard to penetrate, and inserting solar-powered outdoor lights was a trying experience. Then we came up with the

bright idea of placing the light stakes in the bottom brackets of our RV’s awning legs. Once we settle in at a camp- site, we place one light in each of the two holes. This not only helps with visibility at night, the lamps look attractive and they’re easy to put away when we break camp. Bonnie and Vance Clegg Breckenridge Lake Resort Tennessee

mold-free shower mat I don’t like using a big rubber shower mat in my RV because I don’t have a place to hang it to dry. Instead, I use two large jar openers, one for each foot. These mats grip the floor to keep me from slipping, and they’re easy to hang to dry, so no worries about mold.

Christine Vite Pride Resort, North Carolina

2013 KZ Durango 1500 D326cS GVWR: 10,800 pounds Dry Weight: 8,780 pounds Length: 34 feet, 3 inches width: 8 feet

Height: 12 feet Freshwater: 55 gallons Gray Water: 32 gallons Black Water: 32 gallons LP Gas: 60 pounds Base msrp: $44,505 kz-rv.com

SHARE YOUR RV KNOW-HOW You’re the experts on RV travel, and we’d like to hear from you. Please email your tips and accompanying photos or sketches to [email protected]. Make sure to include your name, the name of your Coast to Coast home resort and your mailing address. If your tip is selected for publication, you’ll receive $25.

Illustrations by Wayne Shipp

Summer 2013 COAST TO COAST 21

resort report

checking in at one of our favorite resort affiliates

Making unforgettable family memories on the Ohio–Pennsylvania border Pymatuning Adventure Resort O ne of five Travel Resorts of America properties that open their gates to ers into a kiddie pool, complete with a cascading shower.

director so you can get in on the action. Planned activities run the gamut from nature hikes to scavenger hunts, family crafts, bingo tournaments, karoke contests, clambakes, hotdog roasts and, of course, potluck dinners. Throughout the summer, there’s never a dull moment with scheduled events ranging from the Kids Carnival to the Camping Olympics. When you have a free hour, shoot some hoops, spike a volleyball or take a swing on the tennis courts and batting cages. It’s all here, along with mini-golf, paintball, horseshoes, shuffleboard, bike rentals and a playground, plus a sauna to relax in after your excellent Pymatuning adventures. In the clubhouse, the over-21 crowd winds down in the lounge, and ev- eryone’s welcome in the game room to play darts, foosball, pool and video games. Full-service conveniences in- clude a restaurant and a laundry room, plus the freshly remodeled office, camp store and snack bar. Those who don’t travel in an RV can reserve a two-bedroom cabin or a rental lodging that sleeps up to eight.

Coast to Coast members, northeastern Ohio’s Pymatuning Adventure Resort welcomes you to a prime vacation des- tination near the Pennsylvania border. Pymantuning Adventure Resort earns its middle name many times over, most notably for its family- friendly water park. Visit in the sum- mer and you’ll hear squeals of glee as both children and grownups plummet down three long slides into a pair of pools, while supervised from launch to splashdown by certified lifeguards. For younger kids, a tamer chute low-

After slipping down the water slides, drip your way over to the bumper boat pool and take the wheel of one of 10 motorized rubber boats. The challenge here is to steer through the water can- nons and other hazards without getting sideswiped by other boats—unless, of course, you want to crash and splash. For more watery adventure, take the short trek to Pymatuning Reservoir, a 17,099-acre lake stocked with walleye, muskie, crappie, perch, bluegill and bass. Take advantage of the resort’s rental pontoons and fishing boats to get out on the crystal clear waters. The resort staff will gladly escort you to the dock and give you operating instruc- tions so you can cast off safely. “Our very friendly staff enjoys as- sisting in anything we can to make your stay pleasant,” confirms Beverly Cipra, the resort’s office manager. At the check-in desk, a welcoming staffer will help you settle into one of 150 full- service sites at the year-round Coast Deluxe Resort. After getting your bear- ings, introduce yourself to the activities

Resort Type: Coast Deluxe Location: Williamsfield, Ohio Season: Year-round Website: pymatuningadventureresort.com Good Sam rating: 8.5/8 H /8.5

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2013 Atlanta, Georgia

4 unforgettable days at the Camping World/Good Sam Rally in Atlanta, GA! The Rally puts the pedal to the metal at one of the fastest tracks on the NASCAR circuit, Atlanta Motor Speedway, October 17 through 20. Get in gear for good times, great friends, warm Southern hospitality and new RVs and RV gear as far as the eye can see—all in the infield of Atlanta’s famed 1.54-mile quad-oval track. Like all our Rallies, our goal is to make the next one better than the last and the following are just a few of the things we have in store:

Vince Gill

The Beach Boys

More than 20 seminars a day, hundreds of exhibit booths displaying the latest in RV accessories , and a wide array of RVs on display - all on sale! Expect an extraordinary evening of sun-drenched harmonies, classic surf tunes and unfading youth when the legendary Beach Boys take the stage, performing their iconic hits from the ‘60s through the ‘80s. One of the most popular and most recorded singers of the past quarter- century, country superstar Vince Gill consistently delivers spellbinding vocal performances with emotionally powerful song writing and world-class guitar- playing.

PLUS – Don’t miss the Food Network’s Surreal Gourmet, Bob Blumer . Register to attend now and enjoy all the Rally has to offer!

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