Asia Family Traveller Winter Issue 2021/22

Asia Family Traveller Winter Issue 2021/22

september / october 2020 Winter 2021/22

Big adventures for l ittle people r f r l i l l i

HK$35/S$6/US$4 Printed in Hong Kong HK$40/S$7/US$5

Discovering Sabah Brilliant ideas for an action-packed break

CORAL REEF SOS HOW TO HOLIDAY ON A DESERT ISLAND

Winter Wonderland Cosying up in the English countryside

Asia Family Traveller 1 PLUS - EDITOR'S PICKS FOR 2022'S BEST NEW RESORTS

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CONTENTS

REGULARS

04

Editor’s letter

08

Travel news What to pack this winter

10

Airside Airline news round-up

12

Competition Win a family holiday in Borneo

13

In the know Staycations and special offers

24

Hot & happening Messing about in boats

28

First person Glamour and the great outdoors in Madrid

32

Where we want to stay This winter’s hottest resort openings

60

Environmental travel Reef relief in the Maldives

64

Expat travelling mum The joy of planning ahead

Asia Family Traveller 1

IN THIS ISSUE

FEATURES

Winter 2021

42

Sabah Discovering the island of Borneo

5 Takeaways this issue

46

Hotel style How travel influences interior designer Katharine Pooley

51

Seychelles Diving into the Indian Ocean

56

The world’s second longest flight - a massive 13,575km - is back in the air. Find out what the route is on page 10.

1

Surf’s up Taking a break on the English coast

This year’s zodiac animal is renowned for its strength, braveness and ability to exorcise evils. What is it? Turn to page 18.

2

Royal Caribbean’s new cruise ship, Wonder of the Seas, will be sailing with more than 20,000 plants on board. See page 24. The brand new Four Seasons Madrid now boasts the Spanish capital’s largest spa. Read more on page 28. Seagrass meadows on ocean beds are critical for capturing carbon and generating oxygen. More on page 60.

3

4

5

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hello from th editor’s desk S o things were all starting to fall back into place. The US had reopened its borders to great fanfare, Singapore was rolling out Vaccinated Travel Lanes apace and even Australia, well, part of Australia at least, was beginning to look accessible. And then omicron hit. At the time of writing, the media is chock-full of headlines assessing how dangerous this new variant might be. Despite doctors on the ground in South Africa reporting relatively mild cases, nothing but doom and gloom has been flooding our news feeds - it’s more transmissible, it can beat natural immunity, existing vaccines might struggle to fight it off. Suddenly we all know what a spike protein is and can recite the Greek alphabet. So how worried should we be? A lot? A little bit? Not at all? It seems our politicians are also struggling with the conundrum. How hard should they lockdown this time? A lot? A little bit? Not at all? I think most of us are beginning to realise that there will be no quick fix to Covid, no speedy return to pre-pandemic days. These variants are going to keep on rolling in and crashing down on us for months and probably years to come. So how do we deal with the new normal? I suspect I feel like many others when I admit to swinging wildly in the space of a single day, from “we just have to get on with life, let’s book a lovely holiday,” to “crickey, I really don’t want to catch delta, let alone omicron, I’m not leaving the couch”. Unfortunately my husband over in zero- Covid Hong Kong doesn’t have any choice at all in the matter and will be couchside for a long while yet. Just how far the territory’s already stifling quarantine regulations can still be

tightened is anyone’s guess. I’m currently in a country where an estimated 98% of the population has developed some sort of immunity to Covid, either artificially through vaccination (I’ve had three jabs myself ) or naturally by catching the damn thing and yet I’m still strapping on a medical grade face mask (or paper bag full of germs, depending on how you view masks) every time I leave the house. I’ll happily fly off to visit a friend in another country with literally no idea of what their vaccination or herd immunity is - if there’s no quarantine and they’re not too heavy on the testing requirements, I’m in - but when I’m safely back home I’ll spend hours nervously debating whether I should risk a trip to the local cinema. None of it makes sense. A lot of it has never made sense. How can you open theme parks while schools are still closed, we asked ourselves last year in Hong Kong. How can enclosed malls be welcoming shoppers while wide-open beaches are off-limits? To be honest, Europe is equally confusing. Delegates hob-nob at environmental summits while teachers are busy cancelling school nativity plays for fear of an

outbreak. It’s been dubbed the ‘Little Donkey effect’. How, I keep asking myself, did we end up in this mess? I suspect the pandemic might end not when the virus stops replicating its way through the Greek alphabet, but when we run out of patience with it all. Everything is confusing and muddled all over again. Borders are shutting and opening not necessarily based on good scientific research, but increasingly for political or economic reasons. Question marks hover over the effectiveness of lockdowns, of masks, of border closures, of vaccine passports. Nothing, it seems, is sacred, and most of all our freedoms. Personally, I’ve decided the way forward is a bit of science mixed in with some good old- fashioned health advice; namely vaccines and plenty of fresh air. And caution, it seems, will be the order of the day for a while yet. Hopefully by the time you read this, the world will have calmed down and the great reopening will be back on track. In the meantime, I’m dusting off my suitcase just in case. I hope you enjoy this issue and that it inspires you for a travel-full future. As ever, it has been hugely enjoyable putting it together.

CAROLYNNE DEAR EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

@carolynnedear

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Editor-in-Chief Carolynne Dear OUR TEAM

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ENJOYINGTHECULTUREOF SABAH

ON THE COVER

To order a past copy, email [email protected] Subscription for a print and digital issue including delivery costs is US$25 per year, or US$15 for digital only. Individual issues cost US$6 including delivery. WHERE TO FIND US Hong Kong - Available throughout the city in bookstores, airport lounges, private clubs, international schools, hotels, spas and boutiques. Singapore - Available throughout the city in airport lounges, private clubs, international schools, hotels, spas and boutiques. Online platforms - PressReader, Cathay Pacific PressReader, Qatar Airways PressReader, British Airways PressReader. Hong Kong distributor - Far East Media (Hong Kong Ltd). Singapore distributor - RPD Ltd.

Copyright Penn & Ink Communications Limited, 5 Tai Mong Tsai Road, Sai Kung, Hong Kong. Printed four times a year in Hong Kong and distributed in Hong Kong and Singapore. All rights reserved. Reproduction of this magazine in whole or part without written permission is prohibited. The content provided here is the property of Penn & Ink Communications Limited and no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without permission in writing by the Publisher. While the Editors do their best to verify information published, Penn & Ink Communications Limited, its editors and its writers do not accept responsibility for absolute accuracy. The information provided by Penn & Ink Communications Limited’s contributors do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher or the company. The information here is provided in good faith but Penn & Ink Communications Limited bears no responsibility for any recommendations or advice offered. Travel information is correct at the time of going to press. Due to the global pandemic and uncertain travel situation, some details may have changed by publication date. Always check travel conditions before booking or embarking on an international trip.

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Winter wish-list Sun or snow, enjoy the season in style with the latest travel essentials

01 Zodiac Turkish Towels from Hong Kong’s The Lion Rock Press ( thelionrockpress.com ) feature all 12 Chinese Zodiac animals and are illustrated in the style of Chinese papercut art. The lightweight and quick-drying towels come in coral, teal and dove grey.

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03

02 The sleek Master Ultra Thin Moon compilation of Swiss timepieces has been released as part of Jaeger LeCoultre’s ( jaeger-lecoultre. com ) Ultra Thin Collection. Available in pink gold and with a bezel set with diamonds, or stainless steel featuring deep black, petroleum blue or sunrayed silver dials.

Travel light this winter with TUMI’s ( tumi. com ) smart new Fuel Crossbody, part of a new range of travel accessories launched by the international travel brand in

collaboration with luxury supercar maker and Formula 1 team, McLaren. Wear as a crossbody or around the waist.

04 Aman’s ( shop.aman.com ) fragrances are inspired by the landscapes of Aman destinations around the world. The collection is now presented as a set of seven travel-friendly seven-and-a-half millilitre vials in this Fine Fragrance Discovery Set.

05 Canada Goose ( canadagoose.com ) has launched its début Footwear Collection. The Snow Mantra Boot is inspired by the brand’s Snow Mantra Parka and has been put through its paces in Canada’s frozen north. Waterproof and warm, it has a removable insulated lining boot that moulds to the foot.

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Sky-high

What’s taking off this winter

Emirates’ A380 back in Bangkok Emirates’ flagship A380 service between Dubai and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport is back. The daily service resumed in November and will meet what Emirates says is strong passenger demand for inbound travel to Thailand. Thailand reopened to vaccinated travellers from low- risk countries in the autumn. The service will meet demand from holidaymakers in Europe, Africa and the Middle East. The aircraft will offer first, business and economy classes in the double-decker aircraft and the service will complement existing services operating daily with Bangkok. Emirates is also offering five weekly flights from Bangkok to Phuket which it aimed to increase to a daily service from December 1. Facilities on board the A380 include an on board lounge and fully flat seats in business class and private suites and shower spas in first class. The A380 flights will depart Dubai at 9.30am and arrive in Bangkok at 6.40pm. The return flight will depart Bangkok at 8.35pm and arrive back in Dubai at 5am the following morning (all local times) .

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Scoot fromSingapore to Sussex

United takes off fromSan Francisco to Singapore

Budget carrier Scoot aims to launch a regular service from Singapore for London next month. Launching on December 16, Scoot’s new route will run between Singapore's Changi and London's Gatwick Airport, via Suvarnabhumi in Bangkok, three times a week. The flight ran for two weeks until December 27 in 2021 before taking a break and resuming from March 22, 2022. According to Scoot, the London flights are seasonal scheduled services. Any increase in frequency will depend on demand and regulatory approval. Scoot is the low-cost arm of Singapore Airlines and although Singapore recently opened a Vaccinated Travel Lane with the UK, at time of going to press, the return Scoot flights from London to Singapore could not be used for the VTL scheme. Designated flights to Singapore must be booked with British Airways or Singapore Airlines. BA currently operates four flights a week to Changi and Singapore Airlines flies daily to Heathrow. The Scoot budget flights, which will use Boeing 787 Dreamliner planes, will be the only route between London and Bangkok operated by a low-cost carrier and it’s anticipated the airline will benefit from quarantine-free traffic between Britain and Thailand. The flights were expected to take around 16 hours including transit time in the Thai capital. The airline will offer economy and Scoot Plus cabins. “We’re excited to now introduce the World’s Best Long-Haul Low-Cost Airline to London,” said Scoot boss Campbell Wilson.

One of the world’s longest airline services returns in January as US-based United Airlines links San Francisco and Singapore. A four-times-a-week non-stop flight will be operated using a Boeing 787-9 aircraft under Singapore’s Vaccinated Travel Lane scheme. The route was suspended back in early 2020 due to the Covid-19 crisis. Before the pandemic, United operated a daily service between the two cities and at 13,575km, it was the longest-haul service in the world after Houston to Sydney (13,829km). The route is also served by Singapore Airlines, also a Star Alliance Member, with a daily Airbus A350-900 flight. The two carriers have recently signed a memorandum of understanding to build-up connectivity between Singapore and the US. The two airlines will progressively codeshare on each other’s services. This might also eventually extend to Singapore Airline’s low- cost subsidiary, Scoot. United is also hoping to restart a number of other Asia Pacific-based routes in 2022, including Newark to Hong Kong, San Francisco and Melbourne and the Houston to Sydney route. “We’re excited to resume the Singapore- San Francisco service to offer our customers in Singapore convenient flight options in the US and beyond, as well as for our increased cooperation with Singapore Airlines,” said Patrick Quayle, United’s senior vice president of International Network and Alliances.

A warm welcome at the A380 Emirates on board lounge

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Competition

WIN!

A fabulous family holiday at Shangri-La Rasa Ria, Kota Kinabalu!

Sign-up and answer the question below to be in with the chance of winning a fun-filled escape to this beachfront Shangri-La property!

Escape the city for a journey into nature, where the ocean meets the rainforest and a warm welcome awaits. Surrounded by vast acres of natural beauty, Shangri-La Rasa Ria, Kota Kinabalu is a stunning sanctuary in Sabah on the beautiful island of Borneo. Friendly staff ensures every moment of your holiday counts, from tucking into some of the best dining experiences in Kota Kinabalu, being nurtured in the spa, splashing in the resort pool, or enjoying a signature experience - this is how precious family memories are made.

Asia Family Traveller is excited to partner with Shangri-La Rasa Ria, Kota Kinabalu, to offer this amazing prize. Enter online and you could win: • Three nights accommodation at the stunning Shangri-La Rasa Ria, Kota Kinabalu resort for two adults and two children; • Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner; • Return airport transfer.

Head online (asiafamilytraveller.com/ competitions) and answer this question to be in with a chance of winning: Where is Shangri-La Rasa Ria located? • Borneo • Brazil • Belgium

Competition closes on March 31, 2022.

*Please read the full terms and conditions when you enter online.

(The package is valid until December 31, 2022).

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To enter, sign up at asiafamilytraveller.com/competitions

TRAVEL NEWS

restaurant (pictured) 14

dreaming of all pandemic 15

Singapore’s embracing its eco-responsibilities with a new nature reserve in the city centre 16

Making memories at the Maldives’ most unusual

Creating the personalised sun-kissed break you’ve been

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FLIGHTS OF FANCY

Soneva Fushi in the Maldives has unveiled an unusual restaurant - up in the trees. Flying Sauces is the world’s first dining zipline experience and definitely one for the bucket list. Swing your way over the island’s lush jungle and the sparkling Indian Ocean beyond to a treetop dining platform, enjoying an amuse bouche or two en route. The menu has been put together by chef Rasal in the restaurant kitchen high above the ground and it’s paired with a selection of more than 9,000 wines from the resort’s wine cellar at ground level. The experience begins at The Den and guests glide the 200m elevated route to finish at the treetop table on the edge of the forest by Dolphin Beach. Set aside two-to-three hours for dinner or about two hours for breakfast and high tea.

“This experience gives our guests a new perspective of our unique island ecosystem, allowing them to connect with the sights and sounds of nature while enjoying fine dining hospitality,” said Sonu Shivdasani, Soneva’s co- founder. Chef Rasal is currently serving a six- course dinner menu, with highlights including Hokkaido scallop carpaccio, marinated prawns, black cod with artichoke purée and teriyaki truffle sauce and a plant-based cheesecake with mango salsa to finish. The zipline dining experience is suitable for children aged eight and over with a minimum weight of 25 kilos. Up to 12 guests can enjoy the experience, divided into two groups of six diners.

Zipping to dinner in the Maldives

HONGKONG DINING SHUFFLE Two of Hong Kong’s most renowned dining spaces have upped sticks and moved. Aqua and Hutong, formerly located at One Peking in the city’s buzzing Tsim Sha Tsui district, have reopened in the new H Zentre on Middle Road, also in Tsim Sha Tsui. Aqua can now be found on level 17 of the mixed-use tower, with a stunning mirrored catwalk entrance and spectacular views of Victoria Harbour and the Hong Kong Island skyline. The bigger space also offers an outdoor terrace area, a drawcard not available at One Peking. London chef Andrea Mura has moved over to open the restaurant and its Japanese and Italian kitchens. Hutong, located upstairs on level 18, also boasts outdoor space, perfect for taking advantage of the cooler months. The restaurant was originally named after the bustling alleyways of northern China and

Hong Kong's Aqua restaurant has opened in a new venue

new design elements include handcrafted embroidered Chinese lanterns inspired by the Imperial lanterns of Beijing’s Forbidden City and a Chinese apothecary bar that extends onto the terrace with opium sofa

beds for reclining on. Hutong will also be adding new signature dishes to its northern Chinese cuisine repertoire, as well as a wider selection of dim sum. According to Aqua Restaurant Group founder David Yeo, the

spaces at One Peking have been filled with The Chinese Library, an already popular dining space in the Tai Kwun complex on Hong Kong Island, and a new Italian concept which will also be opening in London.

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I DO, I DO, I DO

+ C H E C K I N G I N +

Boosters As the pandemic continues to rage, the European Union has outlined plans to add a nine-month expiry to its Digital Covid Certificates. Booster jabs are now being rolled out in many countries and the feeling is a third jab will soon be a condition of travel for much of the world. Qatar With the FIFA World Cup approaching in November, Qatari authorities have announced plans to open more than 100 hotels and serviced apartments. Top of the tree are Accor’s ME Doha Fairmont Hotel and Raffles Hotel & Residences. One is rumoured to be a six-star property, possibly Raffles.

- CHECK I NG OUT -

Cheap drinks A survey by PayDayLoansNet has ranked the most expensive cocktails in the world. Top is the Diamonds are Forever mix at Ritz-Carlton Tokyo which comes with a real diamond - and will set you back a cool US$22,600. Well, we’ve all accrued holiday savings over the last year…

Feel the romance at Raffles Maldives (top) and Le Meridien Maldives Resort & Spa

If you’re planning (or have been postponing) a paradisiacal honeymoon, a romantic getaway or even just a dream escape, the stunning Maldives is no doubt top of your list. Soft ocean breezes, sparkling turquoise waters, pristine white beaches and a stunning sunset make for an unforgettable experience with endless photogenic backdrops. But, with numerous atolls and resorts to sift through, just selecting a venue can seem a tall order. To the rescue is Zelvida who can tailor a dream getaway at one of its partner resorts. And you can personalise your experience as much as you like, from relaxing spa treatments to stunning sunset cruises. The friendly Zelvida team will be on-hand to guide you through the booking process to create the bespoke break you’ve been dreaming of.

Their brief is to see your dream holiday unfold and will provide you with a personal concierge to help you dot every ‘i’ and cross every ‘t’. From arrival to departure and everything in between, including dining menus, spa options and fun activities, every detail will be carefully arranged. The project begins with a brainstorming session so Zelvida can understand your needs and preferences and will then move through each idea in more detail to discuss the pros, as well as any cons. Partner properties include Dusit Thani, Hilton, Hyatt, Raffles, Le Meridien, Jumeirah, Shangri-La, Six Senses and more. “Our goal is to ensure that the planning of your dream holiday is arranged and planned with ease,” says Zelvida. For more information, head to zelvidaluxury.com.

Pets in the hold The word is that fur babies are being flown around the world by private jet. Fed-up with commercial airline pandemic restrictions, passengers are taking to the skies in private aircraft - and spare storage is being offered to friends with pets on the move.

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CALLOF THEWILD IN SINGAPORE

Singapore has welcomed a new nature sanctuary to its popular Gardens by the Bay attraction. Kingfisher Wetlands features more than 200 native true mangrove trees planted amongst newly-created waterfalls, streams and ponds over 15,000sqm of land. There’s also a lookout for bird lovers and photographers and plenty of signage is filled with information about the frequently- spotted wildlife in the sanctuary. The development of Kingfisher Wetlands is part of continuous efforts to enrich Gardens by the Bay. The site was a popular spot for twitchers and nature

photographers but wasn’t well known amongst the general public. The redevelopment of the land segues the existing area with the surrounding landscape, making it more accessible. The site is host to a wide range of wildlife, including smooth- coated otters, lesser whistling ducks and Malayan monitor lizards. The bird monitoring programme led by Gardens by the Bay has recorded more than 130 species, almost one third of the total bird species found in Singapore. Native and endangered species of mangrove have been

The new Kingfisher Wetlands park

planted, which contribute to the environment due to the mangroves’ ability to take carbon out of the atmosphere and store it beneath the soil, a natural way of reducing greenhouse gases. The project is sponsored by local manufacturing company Kikkoman Singapore of Japan-based soy sauce maker

Kikkoman Corporation, to celebrate 35 years of friendship with Singapore. The sanctuary is located along the waterfront promenade of Gardens by the Bay and close to the upcoming Gardens by the Bay MRT station on the Thomson-East Coast Line; it’s also on the Round Island cycling route.

NEWRIDE FOR SENTOSA

ADVENTURES INCAMBODIA The five-star Amansara resort at Angkor Wat in Cambodia has crafted a memory-making menu of family adventures. Guests can explore the neighbourhood on a countryside jeep trip with an ox cart ride, archery session and picnic lunch thrown in. There are also guided private tours of Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm available, with breakfast at a Khmer village house, noodle making and a visit to an organic garden. Families can also enjoy a jungle temple cycling trip with a private tour of the twelfth century Bayon Temple, which has now reopened following restoration works. Amansara is just minutes from the famous UNESCO World Heritage Angkor Wat temple complex and itself was once a residence for guests of the Cambodian king. Enjoy manicured gardens, a tranquil spa, pool and accommodation with private courtyards and plunge pools. At time of going to press, Cambodia had reopened to fully vaccinated holidaymakers. The Amansara activities covered here are available until March 2022.

Hold onto hats if you’re in Singapore or planning a visit to the Lion City because there’s a brand new family entertainment heading your way. The city’s official ‘State of Fun’ has now launched SkyHelix Sentosa. SkyHelix Sentosa is Singapore’s tallest open-air ride, boasting

Riding high at SkyHelix Sentosa

360 degree views of the resort island of Sentosa as a gondola gently rotates its way up a vertical, helix-like structure until passengers are suspended 79m above sea level. It’s also set to be Sentosa’s first carbon-neutral attraction. During each ‘flight’, guests sit in an open-air gondola for a 12-minute ride, including ten minutes at its highest point soaking up the views over Sentosa and the Greater Southern Waterfront. All riders receive a soft drink to enjoy as part of the ticket price. An ‘attraction host’ joins each ride, pointing out surrounding views and landmarks as the gondola ascends. SkyHelix Sentosa is just one attraction of a pipeline of new experiences for the island. They include wellness offerings at Oasia Resort Sentosa, a perfume experience known as Scentopia, and Southside, a lifestyle destination. SkyHelix opened in December and is located amongst a clutch of attractions at Imbiah Lookout and adjacent to Singapore Cable Car’s Sentosa station. SkyHelix riders must be vaccinated and children under 12 years must be accompanied by an adult. Children must meet the minimum height requirement of 1.05m. Tickets cost S$18 per adult and S$15 for children aged between four and 12 years.

Adventures at Amansara

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This year’s celebrations usher in the Year of the Tiger as we say goodbye to the Year of the Ox. According to tradition, 2022 will mark the year for people born in 1926, 1938, 1950, 1962, 1974, 1986, 1998, 2010 and 2022. The Tiger is the king of all the beasts in China. Its zodiac sign is a symbol of strength, braveness and of exorcising evils (we can but hope this might include extinguishing the pandemic). Lucky colours for ‘tigers’ are blue, grey and orange; lucky flowers are yellow lilies. Chinese New Year falls on February 1 in 2022, with festivities including catching up with family and friends (social distancing permitting), distributing lai see packets, enjoying a traditional lion dance (pictured) or firework show, clearing out last year’s clutter and tucking into festive family meals. TIGER ROARS INTO TOWN

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THE BEACH IS BACK

Thailand’s most famous beach is to reopen after three years of closure. Maya Bay, which shot to fame following the release of the movie The Beach starring Leonard DiCaptio in 2000, will begin welcoming back tourists from January 1, 2022. The stunning beach was initially closed to tourists in May 2018 following years of environmental degradation - as many as 5,000 tourists a day converged on the 250-yard stretch of sand, resulting in the destruction of about 90% of the island’s corals. A tourist ban was initially introduced for just four months but as marine life began to bounce back, it was decided the ban should be extended for the whole of 2019 while plans were drawn up for a more environmentally sustainable way of managing tourists. Under the new rules, tourists will be capped at 300 a day and they will be allowed on Phi Phi and for just one hour between 10am and 4pm. A new pier away from the beach is under construction.

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Messing about in boats Pull anchor and make waves on sparkling seas

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BAREFOOT BOATING

Explore the Maldives’ stunning Goidhoo atoll on board Soneva in Aqua ( soneva.com ), a 23m luxury yacht moored at the resort of Soneva Fushi. The yacht sleeps up to four adults and two children in spacious bedrooms with ensuite showers. Or opt to sleep under the stars on the top sundeck. The capable crew includes a barefoot butler, chef and wellness therapist, and a divemaster, surf instructor, photographer and astronomer can be added to the team. Pick your route around the atoll and beyond on a one-, two- or three-night adventure. Explore coral reefs, pull-up along uninhabited islands, take a sailing lesson and enjoy an underwater ‘dolphin sled’ - a dolphin experience unique to the Maldives. Finish the day on a high with a ‘Night Snorkelling with Manta Rays’ experience. Mantas are a common sight when dropping anchor in the Goidhoo Lagoon. Slip overboard and let the lights from the yacht illuminate these gentle giants. Or enjoy a dinner hosted by an astronomer under starry skies.

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World Dream celebrates a year of sailings in Singapore

HITTINGTHEHIGH SEAS

International cruise line Dream Cruises ( dreamcruises.com ) has celebrated a year of sailing in Singapore. Despite pandemic restrictions and border closures, World Dream has been whisking residents away for a ‘seacation’ just over the horizon on its ‘no port of call’ cruises. More than 200,000 Singaporeans, many

of them youngsters, have enjoyed speeding down the ship’s six slippery dips, lazing at Zouk Beach Club, riding a virtual reality roller coaster, scaling the climbing wall, having a putt on the mini-golf course or taking part in the Little Dreamers Academy at Sea (perhaps while mum and dad head to the spa).

“Having achieved this one-year milestone in Singapore with World Dream , we’re looking forward to continuing to provide our guests with safe cruises and exciting offerings as we usher in the New Year and welcome more guests in 2022,” said Michael Goh, president of Dream Cruises.

FISHY BUSINESS

Quiet dive sites and reefs teeming with marine life. Could it get any better? Phuket’s post- pandemic waters are positively sparkling and Sea Bees ( sea-bees.com ), the holiday island’s longest-serving dive company, is looking forward to a slimmed down season with smaller dive groups and more individualised itineraries. During the pandemic Sea Bees busied itself supporting the local community with a medical drive and revamping its dive offerings for a new normal. Liveaboard boat, MV Marco Polo , was completely renovated and can now comfortably host up to 12 guests in six air conditioned double cabins with private rain shower and ensuite bathroom. Fewer guests this season has made for a more relaxed schedule, tailored experiences and plenty of space on the dive deck. Enjoy the best of the Andaman Sea, tuck-into delicious Thai food, read, relax and generally ease yourself back into Southeast Asia.

Dive adventures with Sea Bees in Phuket

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PHUKET’S LUXURY LAUNCH Sail into a Thai sunset on board the sleek 137 Pillars Spirit , a luxury yacht launched earlier in 2021 by 137 Pillars Hotels & Resorts ( 137pillarshotels.com ) . Head out of Yacht Haven Marina in Phuket onto the Andaman Sea for an entirely family-friendly half- or full-day cruise, overnight sailing or onboard staycation. The yacht can accommodate up to 12 people for day charters or six guests overnight. Captain Boonchom can arrange personalised cruises as well as scheduled trips and is ably supported by an experienced Asian Marine crew. Phuket is blessed with a plethora of blissful island-hopping opportunities and its pristine waters are looking particularly sparkling following the dearth of travel during the pandemic. Enjoy snorkelling, diving and kayaking in the stunning lagoons overhung with limestone cliffs.

Island-hop around the Andaman Sea

BIG IS BEST

Royal Caribbean ( royalcaribbean.com ) is set to launch the world’s largest cruise ship this spring as Wonder of the Seas hits the water in March. The family-friendly vessel boasts eight ‘neighbourhoods’, or zones, including Central Park, a ‘living park at sea’ with restaurants and boutiques tucked amongst more than 20,000 plants. Boardwalk is for family fun, with rock-climbing walls, a

classic carousel and Aqua Theatre shows. The Pool & Sports neighbourhood is home to a FlowRider surf machine, pools, whirlpools, the ten-storey ‘Ultimate Abyss’ which will be the tallest slide at sea and a ten deck-high zipline. Shop and dine at Pulsing Promenade and enjoy live shows and ice skating displays at Entertainment Place. There’s also a Youth Zone for youngsters to

explore, including the Adventure Ocean kids’ club as well as a nursery for infants and toddlers. Teens can access dedicated spaces, too. Check into a suite and enjoy access to Suite Neighbourhood, with private lounge, dining and sun decks. The ship will be ploughing the turquoise waters of the Caribbean before heading to Europe later in the year.

Royal Caribbean’s new cruise ship

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Madrid’s moment On a long weekend in the Spanish capital, Carolynne Dear mixes al fresco action with old-fashioned city glamour

M adrid is having hotels. And leaning into current global

metropolitan forest. Following a pandemic-delayed launch, Four Seasons, the first of the trio of big- hitting hotels, began welcoming guests late last year. The Ritz has also reopened as Mandarin Oriental Ritz following an extensive refurbishment and this autumn Asia’s Rosewood brand took its first step into Spanish territory with the launch of Rosewood Villa Magna.

Sipping a glass of tinto de verano sitting in a shady Madridleño square, I find myself living out my Hong Kong lockdown dreams. Which were, pretty much, to be sitting in a shady European square sipping a glass of something cool and lovely. No masks, no perspex screens, no limits on diners per table, just a dish of good olives and a relaxed drink in the late afternoon sunshine. It’s the simple things that you miss.

something of a moment this year as it welcomes no fewer than three international five-star

environmental concerns, the city has also grabbed headlines recently by announcing it’s in the throes of building Europe’s largest

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GREEN DREAMS

El Bosque Metropolitano, or the ‘Metropolitan Forest’, aims to become Madrid’s new green lung with more than 450,000 new trees and other vegetation. City authorities are keen to improve air quality and meet European Commission emission limits. The forest will wrap the capital in a 75km environmental ‘belt’ with parks, hiking routes and biking trails. Planting began this autumn and will include native trees like olive, willow, ash and elm and bushes such as gorse, rosemary and thyme. The project will take 12 years to complete and it’s hoped will eventually

absorb 170,000 tons of carbon emissions and act as a thermal regulator for the city.

from dry, largely blue sky days with plenty of sunshine and cooler temperatures outside of high season, perfect for a good dose of vitamin D and plenty of virus-free fresh air. Madrid has an abundance of green spaces. More than 40% of the city is covered with green land and parkland, including the huge Casa de Campo, the Parque del Buen Retiro and the botanical gardens. Casa de Campo is the largest of all Madrid’s green spaces and was a brief sunny stroll from where I was staying. It’s around five times the size of New York’s Central Park, covering more than 1,700 hectares. There’s a boating lake, miles of cycle trails, plenty of space for a picnic and there’s even a zoo, aquarium and amusement park situated within its boundaries. But the following day I headed further out of the city boundaries as I had been invited to join a hiking tour of the nearby medieval city of Toledo. This rather neatly combined two of my travel loves - which are nosing around old places and getting active. Hiking Madrid organises regular walking tours in and around Madrid and our event was led by an extremely enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide. The hikes vary in difficulty but I’d been told this was an ‘easy’ ten kilometres with plenty of opportunity to experience the ancient city of Toledo. We’d been asked to meet mid-morning in a

Spain's capital, Madrid

As the waiters slip past tables, trays laden with drinks and tapas, the gentle burble of conversation fills the square and customers tuck into a pincho de tortilla or a croquette or two. It very much feels as if normal life has resumed. However, while Madrid, and Spain as a whole, is back in the travel game (the streets were bustling and plenty of foreign voices could be detected amongst the crowds

of domestic tourists), Covid-19 still lurks. Which is perhaps something that does subconsciously influence travelling habits, despite the strong desire in this area of the world to get back to normal. I’ve visited Madrid before and of course have much enjoyed its many museums and galleries. But this time I was keen to embrace the great outdoors. At the heart of this southern European country, Madrid benefits

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The historic city of Toledo

TRAVEL STATS

To enter Spain, all travellers aged 12 years and up must complete a government health declaration and show proof of full vaccination. If these requirements are met, there is no quarantine. Spain is part of Singapore’s Vaccinated Travel Lane scheme which means there is no quarantine for fully vaccinated travellers from Spain entering Singapore. Testing however does apply, please check government guidance. Spain is on Hong Kong’s high-risk country list and Hong Kong residents arriving from Spain must isolate for 21 days in designated quarantine accommodation. All information is correct at time of printing, always check the most recent local government guidelines before booking a trip. a stop for a picnic lunch followed by a tour of the city’s most significant cultural sights. There was also a stop at the shop of the Convento de San Antonio de Padua to buy a box or two of the famous marzipan sweets made by the local nuns. By the end of the day we’d clocked up an impressive ten kilometres, lots of historical facts and figures and a phone filled with stunning pictures. I slept all the way back to Madrid. It was a fun way to visit an historic city and more memorable than a standard guided tour. Perfect for families with plenty of energy to burn and wanting to enjoy an al fresco break.

Elegant dining at Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid

little cafe opposite Toledo bus station, which for me involved catching the Madrid Metro and then a coach which would take me the 70km to the ancient city. It was all straightforward enough and I was warmly welcomed and invited to enjoy a coffee and a slice of tortilla before we set off. Toledo is set on a hill which slopes steeply down to the river Tagus. It has a rich history; it’s known as the ‘Imperial City’ as it served as the main venue for the court of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor of Europe, who was also the King of Spain. A melting pot of cultures, the city is renowned for its medieval Arab, Jewish and Christian monuments within the walled old city. It’s also on the Don Quixote

hiking trail as it was the setting for Cervantes’ seventeenth century novel. Our own hiking route took us along the picturesque banks of the Tagus, with plenty of stops for clicking photos of the stunning old city that loomed above us, as well as the Roman arch bridge Puente de Alcantara and the Tagus itself, sparkling under the bright morning sun and cornflower blue skies. The walking was easy - flat and along well- defined pathways - and after an hour or so we reached the outskirts of the city and Fly Toledo, a zip wire crossing the Tagus. It was the perfect opportunity to take a break and enjoy a fun ‘zip’ across the water. We then moved on into the walled city with

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Three sleek new properties are amping up Madrid’s glamour ratings

The pool at Four Seasons Madrid

ROSEWOOD VILLAMAGNA Rosewood Villa Magna launched in early November (unfortunately just after my visit) in the upmarket Salamanca district of the city, close to Madrid’s shopping, dining and cultural attractions. Like both Four Seasons and Mandarin Oriental Ritz, the original building has been redeveloped and infused with luxurious guest rooms, world-class dining spaces and (natch) a spa. The site was originally the location of the nineteenth century Anglada Palace; centuries-old trees in the former palace gardens have been joined by trees, bushes and plants original to the old palace that have been planted in the expansive grounds. Four dining spaces comprise signature restaurant Amos with a menu inspired by northern Spain’s Navarre region; all-day dining at Las Brasas de Castellana; drinks can be enjoyed in the English-style club, Tarde.O, or in the gardens at Courtyard. Patisserie Flor y Nata serves coffee, pastries and afternoon teas.

Four Seasons hospitality group’s first foray into Spain. The property is another heritage redevelopment and unites seven historical buildings from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries into a complex that includes the main hotel as well as private residences and the high-end Galeria Canalejas food hall and shopping mall. Following a decade of work, the much- anticipated property opened late last year after a pandemic-induced delay. Thousands of careful restorations include a dramatic art deco stained glass ceiling which now hangs above the hotel lobby. Curated Spanish artworks adorn the walls and the 200 guest rooms and suites are the last word in sumptuousness. Muted colours, luxe furnishings and ridiculously thick mattresses to melt into after a hard day’s walking help make this a hotel you won’t want to leave. The Penthouse Suite boasts dramatic lounge room views straight over the Calle de Alcala. Facilities don’t disappoint. Four Seasons Madrid offers one of the largest spas in the city with a beautifully sunlit indoor pool. There’s a spectacular rooftop terrace

restaurant, Dani, helmed by chef Dani Garcia, with impressive views over the city’s rooftops and the quadriga sculpture over the neighbouring former Banco di Bilbao headquarters. MANDARIN ORIENTAL RITZ, MADRID The original Ritz dates back to the 1910s but has now undergone an extensive three-year renovation. Naturally, it enjoys a prestigious location opposite The Prado and close to El Retiro Park. The careful restoration has ensured the ‘grande dame’ has lost none of its Belle Epoque charm and elegance; from the sumptuous carpets woven at the Royal Tapestry to the sparkling chandeliers, the property exudes old world glamour. Five dining spaces include The Goya restaurant, which stretches outdoors to El Jardin del Ritz, a sunny terrace where food is served during the warmer months. For the first time in its 110 year history, the hotel offers a spa, including a heated indoor swimming pool, a vitality pool, a steam room and a fitness centre.

FOUR SEASONS MADRID Another début, Four Seasons Madrid is the

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This winter's hottest new resort openings Where we want to stay

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Meliá Phuket Mai Khao, Thailand

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CARTOON CAPERS

Abu Dhabi has welcomed the world’s first Warner Bros-themed hotel, The WB Abu Dhabi. The fun-filled Curio Collection by Hilton-owned property is located on Yas Island and is strolling distance from the Warner Bros Abu Dhabi Theme Park. Warner Bros is the creator of classic cartoon characters including Bugs Bunny, Batman, Daffy Duck, Superman and more, and the eponymous hotel displays more than 400 curated images and film and television props and costumes. Guests pulling up at the hotel will be greeted by digital screens the height of the building playing 35 different pieces of original content created for the hotel. A spiral staircase, or ‘living archive’, in the hotel lobby displays a collection of items showcasing the history of Warner Bros’ role in entertainment, including cowboy boots worn by James Dean in the 1956 film Giant, Michael Keaton’s cowl from the 1989 film Batman and original drawings from The Great Gatsby. Hotel facilities include a Kids’ Club with ‘wascally wabbit’ Bugs Bunny, Daffy Duck and others ready to join in the fun and the hotel is adjacent to Warner Bros World Abu Dhabi, the world’s largest indoor theme park. For every night booked, registered guests will receive a pass to the park as well as other Yas Island attractions, including Yas Waterworld, which is also walking distance from the hotel. This is the second of three Hilton hotels destined for Yas Island, including Hilton Abu Dhabi Yas Island which opened earlier in 2021 and DoubleTree by Hilton Abu Dhabi Yas Island which is coming soon.

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KHAO LAK IS BACK The stunning Grand Mercure Khao Lak Bangsak resort has opened following the Thai government’s loosening of restrictions to the west coast holiday destination of Khao Lak. “Khao Lak is one of Thailand’s most tranquil destinations and our team is incredibly excited to finally open our doors,” Grand Mercure Khao Lak Bangsak’s general manager, Thomas Reupke, told Asia Family Traveller. The beachside property takes inspiration from the traditional riverside villages of Thailand and a canal flows right through the resort, connecting guest rooms and public areas. The rooms and suites all have private terraces with calming views over the canal, pool and gardens. Families are well-catered for; youngsters can take part in daily activities at Kids’ Corner and there’s also a dedicated children’s pool. Hungry tums can be filled at the all-day dining space, Patio, with its live cooking stations conjuring up a plethora of Asian and international dishes. Beachside restaurant Green Mango offers southern Thai cuisine using recipes that have been passed down the generations. Signature dishes are served in traditional ‘pinto’ tiffin boxes. The coastal area of Khao Lak is renowned for its stunning beaches, forests and waterfalls and is a 90-minute speedboat ride from the dive and snorkel hot spots of the beautiful Similan islands. And then there are the miles of sandy beaches, gently lapped by the Andaman Sea… “The resort is the perfect springboard to explore the pristine Andaman coastline and we’re extremely excited to welcome guests,” said Reupke.

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SINGAPORE’S ‘GARDENHOTEL’ Singapore’s Park Royal Collection Marina Bay has been transformed into the city’s first ‘Garden-in-a-Hotel’, following a S$45 million overhaul. The property is now the country’s most ecologically focused hotel, designed to champion sustainability and responsible living. The hotel is home to more than 2,400 plants, trees, shrubs and groundcover from more than 60 varieties of fauna. It also boasts Southeast Asia’s largest indoor skylit Atrium at 21-storeys, a suspended floral sculpture, a skybridge over the hotel’s forest canopy and a 13m green wall in the lobby. A sustainable build meant preserving the original structure to save more than 51,000 tonnes of construction-related carbon dioxide production - the equivalent of cutting down 8.7 million trees. The hotel also has an Urban Farm on its roof with tens of varieties of fruit, vegetables, herbs and edible flowers, which are used in the hotels bars, restaurants and spa. The Green Space, a multi-functional outdoor area overlooking Marina Bay, is beloved by yogis, and also offers guests the chance to relax in a 25m mineral swimming pool that glows with 1,380 fibre optic lights at night.

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SPANISH VIBES IN PHUKET Spanish hotel group Meliá is on track to open a 30-suite, 70-villa resort in partnership with Phuket Villa Group. At time of going to press, Meliá Phuket Mai Khao was due to open on Phuket’s northwestern coastline at the end of December. The five-star resort covers eight acres and fronts Phuket’s longest stretch of sand and is part of a roll-out of the Meliá brand in destinations across Thailand, including Koh Samui, Chiang Mai and Bangkok. The stunning resort has a lot to offer and plenty of fun for kids, including a dedicated kids club. Thailand’s heat getting to you? Cool down at the saltwater swimming pools or in one of the private villa pools - or head to the cascading water gardens. Accommodation stretches from one-bedroom suites with cabanas, to one-bedroom villas for up to two adults and two children. The villas boast outdoor tubs, open-air showers, huge terraces and private plunge pools. A further 15 ‘wellness villas’ offer an open-air vitamin C shower, daily massage, essential oil diffusers, an air purifier, fit ball and yoga mat. Channelling Meliá’s Spanish heritage, Gaia Beach Club will be serving Mediterranean and fusion dishes from an open kitchen. Meanwhile, all- day dining SASA will specialise in cuisine from Southeast Asia. The resort’s YHI spa will be keeping guests relaxed with facials, massages, body scrubs and wraps either in one of five treatment rooms, by the pool or in-villa. And the kids will be in good hands at the kids' club, Kidsdom. “There isn’t a more desirable place to be on the water than Mai Khao Beach,” said Meliá Phuket Mai Khao’s general manager, Magdalena Martorell. “We’re looking forward to unveiling a resort defined by a focus on customer wellbeing and Meliá’s sunny Spanish hospitality.”

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